|By Ben Brotelho|
From: Albany, NY
Feb 8, 2012
Slippery crack! but fun
|By Drake Pregnall|
From: Lake Placid, NY
Jul 6, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b PG13
This is a super easy climb to set up a toprope on. If you want to get a bold lead in though, this climb certainly has the elements. I certainly believe it was 9+ when it was first done, but the polished crimps and slippery crack have upped the ante in my opinion.
GEAR BETA WARNING: A #5 BD Stopper is the first real piece you can get in at around 12 feet. There is a tiny slot just a few feet below where the finger crack properly starts. It is not obvious at all, so hopefully me pointing it out makes people feel a little more encouraged to give this one a go. No need to run it out all the way from the ground to the crack for gear.
|By Jay Harrison|
Dec 7, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a PG13
This is another BW route besmirched by a no-pro start and a bad landing. Definitely 5.10 territory with its "popular polish"; and no gear until you've done the hardest moves. Still, it isn't over once you reach the crack: there's a lot of challenge stuffed into this short length.