Live and Let Dyno 5.12
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11c [details] |
| FA: | Arjun Heimsath, Hanna Breetz and Geir Hundal |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | arjunmh on Nov 25, 2011 |
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Geir established below the crux. Photo by Marcy.
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Description Named after the James Bond, "Live and Let Die".
Starts from bottom of the formation at a lovely lunch slab on the north side. Moderate climbing past three bolts and a warm up bulge gains the base of the torch where some careful moves past two more bolts and loose to rotten rock are needed to get up and traverse under the roof. Clip the bolt protecting the roof, clear the roof and pass two more bolts to anchors. Rap or lower the line.
This was the first line that attracted AMH to the torch. I scoped it thoroughly on the first day while trying to find a way up the Torch, and decided not to try while rope soloing. HLB worked it with me cleaning over a couple weekends and Geir helped me better establish the line and decide where to put the bolts. Just as well I didn’t try soloing it as the rock took a lot of cleaning and the crux moves to clear the roof are some of the hardest in the area. Is still not entirely clean and needs a bit more work.
Location North side of the Torch
Protection Sport, 8 bolts
Geir on the lower part. Photo by Marcy.
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| Comments on Live and Let Dyno |
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By Ball
From: Oakridge, OR
Feb 26, 2012
rating: 5.11a
| Cool route! There's very few boring or choss spots on this one!
I found the name a bit curious, however. Climbed it static. If you're 5'8 or taller and climb 10+ I'd say go for it. |
By David Arthur Sampson
Oct 30, 2012
| Everyone has a right to an opinion, but I suggest that you do not get on this climb thinking it is a 10+. |
By NickSch
From: Tempe
Nov 29, 2012
rating: 5.11c
| Dont let the name scare you off. Can be done completely static. Still a lot of loose rock at the base of the torch. Fun route that puts you in a very cool/exposed position. |
By Dwight Jugornot
From: Arvada, Co.
Feb 10, 2013
rating: 5.12-
| definitely not a 10+. requires technique and strength. having said that there are just a couple of tough moves. The rest of the route is really good as well, just not as tough. Can be hung as top rope from the summit for those of us who are feelin' puny. I did! |
By Austin Sobotka
Apr 15, 2013
rating: 5.11a/b
| Really fun route! movement, location, and position are all great. I cannot fathom, however, how this could be a twelve. It seems to me that smokin guns, the last gentleman, timeshare, and the 12a at the towers, are all significantly harder than live and let dyno. The crux moves seem comprable in difficulty to flakes of wrath/mona lisa, both 11a/b. Although 10+ would seem acceptable if the route or general area was old school, it is not, and i think for the area a mid to low 11 rating fits well.
So, if the rating scared you away from the route, think again, and go give it a try! |
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