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Little Yellow Jacket 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 580', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: John Kear and Alan Aiken Summer 2005
Page Views: 3,583
Submitted By: John Kear on Nov 28, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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Carolyn Parker on the spectacular 4th pitch of Lit...

Description 

Pitch 1 - Start on a steep red blunt arete, climb straight up through a bulge and exit left on to a steep slab. Climb up past bolts past a horizontal break, continue up a corner and exit right to easier climbing and the belay, 110ft (5.11-)

Pitch 2 - Move up and left staying out of the corner on clean face climbing to gain a pin. Aim for a short left-facing corner, climb the corner and exit right to a ledge, a few more moves up and left gains the belay. 115ft (5.10a)

Pitch 3 - Straight up corner 40ft, mantel up and left, trend up and left on perfect stone past a bolt and piton to the belay, 115ft (5.10+/5.11-)

Pitch 4 - Traverse left off of the belay to an open book, climb up and exit right to corner and crack system, eventually under clinging out right and up to the belay ledge, 120ft (5.10c)

Pitch 5 - Climb up and left to a small ledge clip the bolt and do a delicate traverse left (crux) into a gully. Climb good rock on the right wall of the gully to another ledge. Climb the pillar directly above the ledge via a thin crack that leads to a wild block/flake, climb directly over this to the summit. LYJ does not stay in the left hand gully. 140ft (5.11a)

Location 

Located about 100ft down and around the corner to the northwest of the start of Second Coming. Walk off the top.

Protection 

Standard Sandia Rack (single set of cams and nuts to 2" or 3", it is nice to have doubles in the .5 to 1.5 inch range) All the anchors except the top have one bolt with gear options. All pitches have some fixed gear.


Photos of Little Yellow Jacket Slideshow Add Photo
Little Yellow Jacket Topo
BETA PHOTO: Little Yellow Jacket Topo
Making the final moves at the top of the excellent...
Making the final moves at the top of the excellent...
Wyatt safely through the 1st pitch crux
Wyatt safely through the 1st pitch crux
Jason Patton following the great 4th pitch of Litt...
Jason Patton following the great 4th pitch of Litt...
Mike coming across the excellent 4th pitch of Litt...
Mike coming across the excellent 4th pitch of Litt...
Jason Patton topo in hand on Little Yellow Jacket.
Jason Patton topo in hand on Little Yellow Jacket.
Nat finishing up the airy traverse on pitch 4.
Nat finishing up the airy traverse on pitch 4.
Wyatt starting the tricky first pitch.
Wyatt starting the tricky first pitch.
Trying to get back on route after a couple of pitc...
Trying to get back on route after a couple of pitc...

Comments on Little Yellow Jacket Add Comment
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By Amy Jordan
Dec 1, 2007

Great, great route. The rock is super clean and the cruxes are very interesting and fun.
By Anthony Stout
Administrator
From: Albuquerque, NM
Aug 2, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R

Although John recommends a light, single set, we took a double set of the small to medium gear (C3s to #1 Camelot). We were happy we did (I can be a bit of a ninny when it comes to run outs! I like to see gear below me.)! My partner described this route as "warpy moople on steroids". He was referring to a few heady run out sections on the faces that are certain to grab your attention! They are not difficult, just heady. If you climb 5.11, you will be fine.

A nice route though. The traverse on the fourth pitch is awesome!
By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Aug 4, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

I found the start on the 1st pitch and the crux of the third pitch to be the headiest areas, and the hardest cruxes. In both areas Tony spotted some places for gear that I may have missed. In comparison the 11a crux on the last pitch was both really well protected and felt easy. I was also happy we brought a double set. I don't think any of the harder sections R rated, but some of the easier sections could be 5.9 PG-13 or R.
By Keith Thomas
From: Socorro, NM
Aug 17, 2009
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

The undercling / sidepull flake on the traverse on the final pitch is crumbling and will likely fall off soon, either requiring the use of a longer reach or inferior footholds and a higher crystal handhold. A little exhilarating to have the hold crack and flex out a half inch or so.
By John Kear
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jun 16, 2010

I'm not sure when the hold at the crux broke off completely, I know it has been crumbling for several years now. I did the route again yesterday and the original hold is gone now. The moves basically remain the same with a slightly longer reach to small holds, the key to this section is still the same technical foot sequence though. I've changed the gear beta slightly as well, I have to agree that it is nice to have doubles in the .5 to 1.5 inch range.
By Patrick Vernon
From: Albuquerque, NM
Sep 21, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

This was an excellent route.

Wandering, yet ultimately direct. Varied climbing on faces slabs and a little crack.

I thought the first pitch was the crux and solid .11a, maybe even a tad harder. The third pitch you have to punch it at the crux and run it out on 5.9. The traverse is awesome, and the last pitch is not bad (.10c compared to the first) and one of the least sustained on the route.