From the Washington State Park's Page [www.parks.wa.gov/474/Beacon-Rock]: Beacon Rock offers excellent opportunities for rock climbing, and is considered to be some of the very best "Traditional Climbing" in the northwest. Climbers do need to be aware of where and when they climb due to management restrictions. Only the NW corner is open to climbing year round. The east face is closed year round due to environmental sensitivity. The rest of Beacon Rock is closed to rock climbing from February 1 to mid July annually to protect sensitive wildlife habitat. Call the park at (509) 427-8265 for more information.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
In a corner up and left of the classic SouthEast Face route is this gem of a climb. Little wing is probably deserving of 5.8 plus, and definitely of CLASSIC status. Gain the slag ledge via climbing some fun finger, hand cracks and slab. Don't forget to protect your second before traversing right to the anchors! Links up wonderfully with either Jill's Thrill or SouthEast Corner, or even Fear of Flying if you are up for the challenge.
Left of SouthEast Corner, below Fear of Flying. Beacon!
By Colin Parker Administrator From: Idyllwild, CA Sep 25, 2011 rating: 5.85b16VI-15HVS 4c
The first few times I did this route I accidentally switched onto the Southeast Corner route. To stay on Little Wing, make sure you look for the finger crack up and left as you near the top of the initial 'pillar' of rock that you're climbing. Once you finish this finger crack you can place a couple pieces and traverse right to the snag ledge belay.
By Nate Ball Administrator From: Taipei, TW Aug 24, 2013 rating: 5.85b16VI-15HVS 4c
This route is short but sweet! To extend the fun, continue up the first pitch of Fear of Flying or Right Gull, both 10a, and both easily combined with a single 60m.