Little Wing 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | 1985 Jim Opdycke, Robert McGown, Mark Cartier |
| Submitted By: | Geoff-cyclewolf on Jul 22, 2011 |
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Beacon Rock is only open to climbers from July 15th through February 2nd due to peregrine falcon nesting. MORE INFO >>>
From the Washington Park's Page Beacon Rock offers excellent opportunities for rock climbing except where it interferes with nesting raptors, primarily on the south face. The presence of the falcon nest requires that the south face be closed to technical rock activity February 1 to mid-July annually; open the rest of the year. The east face is closed year-round due to environmental sensitivity. Call the park at (509) 427-8265 for more information.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description In a corner up and left of the classic SouthEast Face route is this gem of a climb. Little wing is probably deserving of 5.8 plus, and definitely of CLASSIC status. Gain the slag ledge via climbing some fun finger, hand cracks and slab. Don't forget to protect your second before traversing right to the anchors! Links up wonderfully with either Jill's Thrill or SouthEast Corner, or even Fear of Flying if you are up for the challenge.
Location Left of SouthEast Corner, below Fear of Flying. Beacon!
Protection Takes smaller cams, nuts, and gear up to 2 inches
By Colin Parker Administrator From: Idyllwild, CA Sep 25, 2011 rating: 5.8
| The first few times I did this route I accidentally switched onto the Southeast Corner route. To stay on Little Wing, make sure you look for the finger crack up and left as you near the top of the initial 'pillar' of rock that you're climbing. Once you finish this finger crack you can place a couple pieces and traverse right to the snag ledge belay. |
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