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Little Viking 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Scott Beguin, Jason Hundausen, Josh Smith, Rob Hilko, Miguel Hoffman, and David Volk
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 954
Submitted By: Scott Beguin on Mar 9, 2009

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Josh finishing up the face. March 2009.

Description 

This route travels the obvious line up the south face of Juno Tower. It offers a variety of different moves that beautifully weave its way up this awesome spire. The rock is solid and the climbing is consistent at the grade with the crux move being 5.10c and the rest of the climb is at a sustained 5.10. Be aware that most of the bolt line is consistently to the left of where the actual climbing is, most of the way up. The bolts were placed more to where the rock quality was the best. It has thought provoking movement and leaves you a couple of options to the anchors. This route is a very enjoyable outing and highly recommended.

Protection 

10 bolts to a 2 bolt Fixe Rap Anchor.


Photos of Little Viking Slideshow Add Photo
Starting into the final arete. March 2009.
Starting into the final arete. March 2009.
Miguel Hoffman starting up Little Viking before it...
Miguel Hoffman starting up Little Viking before it...
Scott entering the crux of Little Viking. March 20...
Scott entering the crux of Little Viking. March 20...
M. Hoffman cruising the crux before the hollow sou...
M. Hoffman cruising the crux before the hollow sou...

Comments on Little Viking Add Comment
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By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Mar 9, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Excellent route! Has a little bit of everything in it. Original way to finish at the top was go left and do some fun balancy moves near the last bolt; an alternate finish and one that gives you some fun air is to exit right at the huecos near the top, pulling directly through the arete - be mindful though as it's easy to skip the last bolt.
By Liz MacDonald
Aug 10, 2009

Warning--this new route seems to have been well-cleaned but I was able to easily pull off a rock heavier than me. I was a few feet off-route to the right, near the crux halfway up the climb; fortunately the rock landed several feet away from my belayer. Accidentally pulling off the boulder was a lot easier than the climb for me! :)