Little Stiffy 5.11c
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11b/c [details] |
| FA: | Jack Marshall, Sam Owings |
| Submitted By: | Art Morimitsu on Dec 20, 2006 |
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Little Stiffy
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Description This is the route with the huge hueco on the east face of Raven Rocks.
Climb overhanging terrain on huecos until you reach the mother of all huecos. Head up and slightly right until you reach the point where the route changes from vertical to less than vertical (crux) where the anchors are located.
Location Look for the huge 3 ft hueco, around the corner from the large roof.
Protection 4 bolts, chain anchors.
| Comments on Little Stiffy |
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By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Apr 9, 2007
rating: 5.11c
| Fun and exciting with sequential moves coming out of the large hueco. Just when you think you've got it beat, you get to the last clip. Tricky moves to anchor.....pretty happy I didn't attempt the onsite.
~Susan |
By Eli Stein
From: Los Angeles, CA and Boston, MA
Mar 30, 2009
| WARNING! Rock below the fourth bolt has chipped off exposing about half a centimeter of the shaft of the bolt. This is not a cruxy area of the climb, but just so you know. |
By Matt West
From: Vail, CO
Apr 18, 2011
| The rock around the fourth bolt appears to have eroded even more since Eli's post.
Very fun climbing though. |
By Red
From: Arizona
May 31, 2011
| Over two years and nobody has replaced the fourth bolt! I'd say about an inch of the bolt is exposed, maybe more. It would be a great community service if someone could take care of that. I would but I'm a six hour drive from NJC. If nobody posts on here that it is fixed by the next time I know I'm heading out there, then I'll bring my drill and take care of it. |
By duh
Jul 14, 2011
rating: 5.11b
| The bolt has been replaced 4-27-12
jack |
By Nelson Day
From: Victorville, CA
Mar 12, 2012
| Excellent finger lock at the top portion will help you make a clip from an otherwise somewhat insecure position. Was excited to be able to use a fingerlock on this sport route! |
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