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Raven Rocks: East Face
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Little Stiffy 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Jack Marshall, Sam Owings
Page Views: 1,001
Submitted By: Art Morimitsu on Dec 20, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Little Stiffy

Description 

This is the route with the huge hueco on the east face of Raven Rocks.
Climb overhanging terrain on huecos until you reach the mother of all huecos. Head up and slightly right until you reach the point where the route changes from vertical to less than vertical (crux) where the anchors are located.

Location 

Look for the huge 3 ft hueco, around the corner from the large roof.

Protection 

4 bolts, chain anchors.


Photos of Little Stiffy Slideshow Add Photo
Above the giant hueco
Above the giant hueco
Approaching the crux
Approaching the crux

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By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Apr 9, 2007
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Fun and exciting with sequential moves coming out of the large hueco. Just when you think you've got it beat, you get to the last clip. Tricky moves to anchor.....pretty happy I didn't attempt the onsite.

~Susan
By Eli Stein
From: Soulthern Caliswag
Mar 30, 2009

WARNING! Rock below the fourth bolt has chipped off exposing about half a centimeter of the shaft of the bolt. This is not a cruxy area of the climb, but just so you know.
By Matt West
From: Vail, CO
Apr 18, 2011

The rock around the fourth bolt appears to have eroded even more since Eli's post.

Very fun climbing though.
By Red
From: Arizona
May 31, 2011

Over two years and nobody has replaced the fourth bolt! I'd say about an inch of the bolt is exposed, maybe more. It would be a great community service if someone could take care of that. I would but I'm a six hour drive from NJC. If nobody posts on here that it is fixed by the next time I know I'm heading out there, then I'll bring my drill and take care of it.
By duh
Jul 14, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

The bolt has been replaced 4-27-12

jack
By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Mar 12, 2012

Excellent finger lock at the top portion will help you make a clip from an otherwise somewhat insecure position. Was excited to be able to use a fingerlock on this sport route!
By Clif Clap
Sep 29, 2013

Beautiful route. Sustained throughout with thoughtful movements low up to tricky, slick feet above heading to the last two clips. Pocket pinches, underclings, liebacks, and a crimp near the end for good measure. This route has variety.