Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Below The Old New Place
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adam Ant (aka Nuclear Ant Farm) 
Color of My Potion 
Fat Boys Don't Fly 
Flesh-Eating Gnats 
Got a Nightstick, Got a Gun, Got Time on My Hands 
Greg Shredder 
I Dogged Your Wife and She is a Doofus 
Inflight Movie 
Instant Dogma 
L Dopa 
Little Shop Of Horrors 
Manic Crack (aka Left Twin Crack) 
Manic Nirvana 
Monsterpiece Theatre 
Oscar de La Cholla 
P.M.S. 
Pathogenic Cysts 
Polyester Terror 
Putterman Cracks 
Ralph's Dilemma 
Ralph's Leisure Suit 
Ralph's Revenge 
Right Twin Crack (aka Lost Nerve) 
Route 1 
Route 22 
Route 24 
Route 25 
Route 26 
Route 27 
Route 31 
Route 32 
Sardonic Smile 
Scandanavian Airlines 
Strong Urge to Fly 
Wailing Banshees 

Little Shop Of Horrors 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio
Page Views: 366
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Apr 16, 2007
Good Page?0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Add Photo Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

More sustained than its twin to the left, this great climb offers several hard moves on great rock. Begin the same as for Monsterpiece Theatre. At the 2nd bolt, make a hard right for the first bolt of this route. After clipping the LSOH's first bolt (third total) things get interesting. Some fancy footwork and a good mono lead up to improving holds and a pumpy sequence of continuous cranks. Never super hard, but it doesn't let up till you reach the smooth basalt near the top. After a well-earned shake, a few more balancey moves lead to the top.

Apparently folks used to approach this route via Polyester Terror, the crack to the right. The sport-climbers variation is described here. Rope drag isn't an issue.


Location 

Right of Monsterpiece theater, shares first 2 bolts.


Protection 

5 bolts and 2 bolt chain anchor. Alternatively, bring some finger-sized gear.



Comments on Little Shop Of Horrors Add Comment
Show which comments
By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Mar 27, 2011
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

Anchor replaced 3/27/11. The bolts themselves weren't in too bad of shape, but the homemade hangars were rusting over and were kind of sketchy.