This climb is considered to be Tuolumne Meadow's finest finger crack for the grade. And it is. The climb is steep and protects well. The route is sometimes crowded.
Follow a trail to the base of Lamb Dome. Little Sheeba is below the right-end finish of On The Lamb on the Lower Right Corner of the dome.
Bring a double set of cams from .6" to 2", one three inch piece for the top, and a few nuts. Bolt anchor with rap rings. The climb may be top roped by scrambling around on the sometimes wet 3rd class slabs to the left.
|Comments on Little Sheeba
From: Sacramento, CA
Feb 7, 2007
About as classic as it gets for a single-pitch climb.
|By Greg DeMatteo|
From: W. Lebanon, NH
Apr 7, 2008
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
For as great as the pics look I don't remember this climb being all that great. It's not bad but in my years in Tuolumne I was never drawn back to do it again.
Jul 17, 2008
Ausome single pitch! Great pro and fun finger locks all the way up..
From: Prescott, AZ
Oct 17, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
Good as far as Tuolumne crack clibing goes
Jul 13, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
we did this as the very last route of the day, at the end of 16 days of climbing. we had just a little bit of time left and figured we would head over and check it out. when i first looked at it, i swear i thought it looked about 5.7. my wife lead it first and paused shortly a couple times, but didn't really seem to have much trouble.
i decided i only needed a skeleton rack with a handful of small cams. she asked 'are you sure about that?', in that sort of tone that suggests it might not be that great of an idea. after about 30 or 40 feet, i realized that i kind of 'misunderestimated' this little route and would have to put some work in to make sure that i had the right gear at the right time. the climbing was kind of barn doorish and i was loath to paste my foot on the polished gold face.
at the end of the day we both agreed that out of all of the pitches in the 10a to 10d range that we had climbed, little sheeba was about as tough as any of them. i think 90% of the problem was that i didn't take this little gal seriously... which usually kind of blows up in my face every time.
|By Colonel Mustard|
From: Reno, NV
Jul 9, 2012
I like Slim's story. Yes, this climb looks casual from the base, but it packs a bite. Not only is it longer than it looks from below, but it is more engaging - even on the low angle, easy looking stuff.
I brought a light-ish rack and found myself - decidedly not a master of nut placements - placing a lot of stoppers at the top third of the climb. HB offsets worked very well here.
Excellent locks, face climbing, and jams, well worth the ten minute hike.
One 3" or 3.5" piece for the exit move is very nice.
|By Clayton Knudson|
From: Fargo, ND
Nov 2, 2012
Super good route for beginners in the 5.10 range. Not because its easy, much more because it isn't but protects really well. Solid and sustained with great protection and pretty mellow at the very start to get out of deck range. nuts and small cams both work great remember a 3 for the top that you can't really see from the base of the climb.