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Lamb Dome
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Chute Me T 
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Ground Effects S,TR 
Jailbreak Finish T 
Left North Book T 
Little Sheba Continuation T 
Little Sheeba T,TR 
Nerve Wrack Point T 
On the Lamb T 
Silent Shout S 
Tectonomagmatic T 

Little Sheeba 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
Season: Summer
Page Views: 4,704
Submitted By: Darshan Ahluwalia on Feb 6, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (56)
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Sending Little Sheeba.

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


This climb is considered to be Tuolumne Meadow's finest finger crack for the grade. And it is. The climb is steep and protects well. The route is sometimes crowded.


Follow a trail to the base of Lamb Dome. Little Sheeba is below the right-end finish of On The Lamb on the Lower Right Corner of the dome.


Bring a double set of cams from .6" to 2", one three inch piece for the top, and a few nuts. Bolt anchor with rap rings. The climb may be top roped by scrambling around on the sometimes wet 3rd class slabs to the left.

Photos of Little Sheeba Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Clipping some gear high on Little Sheeba.
Clipping some gear high on Little Sheeba.
Rock Climbing Photo: Di looking strong after the send.
Di looking strong after the send.
Rock Climbing Photo: Kevin on a short-lived toprope.
Kevin on a short-lived toprope.
Rock Climbing Photo: Sending Little Sheeba.
Sending Little Sheeba.
Rock Climbing Photo: Little Sheeba.  This picture makes it look slabby,...
Little Sheeba. This picture makes it look slabby,...
Rock Climbing Photo: Little Sheeba, Tuolumne Meadows
Little Sheeba, Tuolumne Meadows
Rock Climbing Photo: Little Sheba first pitch.
Little Sheba first pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Kevin nearing the top.
Kevin nearing the top.

Comments on Little Sheeba Add Comment
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By M.Morley
From: Sacramento, CA
Feb 7, 2007

About as classic as it gets for a single-pitch climb.
By Greg DeMatteo
From: W. Lebanon, NH
Apr 7, 2008
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

For as great as the pics look I don't remember this climb being all that great. It's not bad but in my years in Tuolumne I was never drawn back to do it again.
By Dra-go-nee
Jul 17, 2008

Ausome single pitch! Great pro and fun finger locks all the way up..
By ccmski
From: Prescott, AZ
Oct 17, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Good as far as Tuolumne crack clibing goes
By slim
Jul 13, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

we did this as the very last route of the day, at the end of 16 days of climbing. we had just a little bit of time left and figured we would head over and check it out. when i first looked at it, i swear i thought it looked about 5.7. my wife lead it first and paused shortly a couple times, but didn't really seem to have much trouble.

i decided i only needed a skeleton rack with a handful of small cams. she asked 'are you sure about that?', in that sort of tone that suggests it might not be that great of an idea. after about 30 or 40 feet, i realized that i kind of 'misunderestimated' this little route and would have to put some work in to make sure that i had the right gear at the right time. the climbing was kind of barn doorish and i was loath to paste my foot on the polished gold face.

at the end of the day we both agreed that out of all of the pitches in the 10a to 10d range that we had climbed, little sheeba was about as tough as any of them. i think 90% of the problem was that i didn't take this little gal seriously... which usually kind of blows up in my face every time.
By Colonel Mustard
Jul 9, 2012

I like Slim's story. Yes, this climb looks casual from the base, but it packs a bite. Not only is it longer than it looks from below, but it is more engaging - even on the low angle, easy looking stuff.

I brought a light-ish rack and found myself - decidedly not a master of nut placements - placing a lot of stoppers at the top third of the climb. HB offsets worked very well here.

Excellent locks, face climbing, and jams, well worth the ten minute hike.

One 3" or 3.5" piece for the exit move is very nice.
By Clayton Knudson
From: El Portal, CA
Nov 2, 2012

Super good route for beginners in the 5.10 range. Not because its easy, much more because it isn't but protects really well. Solid and sustained with great protection and pretty mellow at the very start to get out of deck range. nuts and small cams both work great remember a 3 for the top that you can't really see from the base of the climb.
By BruceB
From: Reno, NV
Jun 30, 2014

Great route, more to it than it looks. #2 BD worked for the top.

Unless my rope suddenly shrank, I'd say 60m isn't really long enough. We had some minor shenanigans rapping off onto the large boulder on the left side. I'd recommend a 70m rope.
By kenr
Aug 14, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Rope length: There's a new bolted route (Silent Shout?) next to Little Sheba to the west, so we thought we'd top-rope it after Little Sheba, and discovered that a 60 meter rope was definitely _not_ long enough.

Little Sheba: If I climbed it once a week, I'd become a much better crack climber - (though I can't say it's as _fun_ as some other crack climbs).
I felt that no single move was harder than 10a, but the thoughtfui moves just kept coming at me. Remarkably sustained.
By aho
From: Mountain View, CA
Sep 29, 2015

Agreed with BruceB and kenr, it definitely needs a 70m to TR/rappel. Although there is always the 3rd class walk off to the climber's right if you only have a 60m.

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