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Little Secrets 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: The Head Crew, 1994
Page Views: 741
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Dec 23, 2001
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Kirsten low on the route.
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Description 

Start off the ledge and in its middle. Here a shallow corner system leads to a shallow overlap - the climbing is actually left of both. After crossing the overlap on its left, pull back right with a series of moves to gain the center of the formation with cracks on the left and on the right. Little Secrets is cruxy right off the bat, but it settles down to exquisite 5.11 edge climbing for much of its distance, actually until just approaching the anchors. Things get real thin and crisp on the over-hanging section 15 feet below the anchor. The gear is largely well-placed, nonetheless, one still has to suck it up getting to the anchor and the last 15 feet are tweaky, fingery, and a bit spooky. NB: the upper crux has a high clip making the move almost from a TR stance.

This is easily worth three stars for the excellent stone, very high continuity, and the cool position. It has thin, fingery climbing most of the way. The FFA goes to Tod Anderson.


Protection 

Ten draws and a 60 m rope.



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By ChanVan
Oct 7, 2011
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

Not sure if I was on the right route (I did the one immediately left of NTB), but I did not find the beginning to be cruxy at all- really just big moves between excellent holds- also, there is a perfect hand crack just right of the upper headwall that one can still easily clip from, so I did not find the top to be all that tweaky- right side in crack, left on face- either way it is a great route, but 12b seems quite high for the grade.

By Garrett Bales
From: Lake City, CO
Sep 23, 2012
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

Fun climb, if not for some choss it would be classic. NO WAY is this thing 12b. The right hand jam is def. on. Def. a worthy climb.