Little Secrets  5.12b

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch Consensus:  5.12a [details] FA:  The Head Crew, 1994 Submitted By:  Richard M. Wright on Dec 23, 2001 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Kirsten low on the route.

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Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>> FYI: Parts of Devil's Head climbing area are closed March 1- July 31 every year for Peregrine falcon protection. The official closure order and associated map can be found here: www.fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUMENTS/stelprdb5280647.pdf. For questions or more information, please contact the South Platte Ranger District office at 303.275.5610. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Start off the ledge and in its middle. Here a shallow corner system leads to a shallow overlap - the climbing is actually left of both. After crossing the overlap on its left, pull back right with a series of moves to gain the center of the formation with cracks on the left and on the right. Little Secrets is cruxy right off the bat, but it settles down to exquisite 5.11 edge climbing for much of its distance, actually until just approaching the anchors. Things get real thin and crisp on the over-hanging section 15 feet below the anchor. The gear is largely well-placed, nonetheless, one still has to suck it up getting to the anchor and the last 15 feet are tweaky, fingery, and a bit spooky. NB: the upper crux has a high clip making the move almost from a TR stance.

This is easily worth three stars for the excellent stone, very high continuity, and the cool position. It has thin, fingery climbing most of the way. The FFA goes to Tod Anderson.

Protection 

Ten draws and a 60 m rope.