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Little Scraggy Dome

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Craggy Tur T 
Into The Groove T 
Ken Trout's Route T 
Midlife Crisis Variation T 
Miss Manners S 
Past Tense T 
Second Thoughts T 
Shear Class T 
Two Jews Blues S 
Unknown 5.8 T 

Little Scraggy Dome 


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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Jeff Buhl on May 15, 2003
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BETA PHOTO: Little Scraggy Dome.

Description 

Little Scraggy Dome is another place for some great Platte slab climbing. The scenery is outstanding, it is quiet, and it feels remote. It is West facing making it ideal for mornings on hot summer days or afternoons in the Spring, Fall and Winter. The difficulty currently ranges from 5.7 to 5.11 and is home to perhaps one of the best 5.10a slab routes in the Platte area. Over the past few years there has been new route activity and some excellent well protected slab routes have been put up. I am not sure who is behind the new route activity but whomever it is should be commended for excellent work.


Getting There 

From US 285, take CR 126 South and go 4.3 miles past Buffalo Creek to Forest Service Road #550. Go right on FS 550 and follow the road for 2.2 miles to a little pullout on the left hand side of the road. Follow an access trail (an old 4x4 road) through a field and then along a very small stream until it connects with the Colorado Trail. Take a left on the Colorado Trail and in about 250-400 yards you will be standing below Little Scraggy Dome. Another few minutes of scrambling are required to reach the base.


Climbing Season


10 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',0],['5.10',2],['5.11',3],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Little Scraggy Dome:
Midlife Crisis Variation   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Two Jews Blues   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 3 pitches, 400'   
Craggy Tur   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
Miss Manners   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 3 pitches, 250'   
Browse More Classics in Little Scraggy Dome

Featured Route For Little Scraggy Dome
Not that route finding is any kind of challenge on this route, but here's a topo anyway!

Two Jews Blues 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  CO : South Platte : ... : Little Scraggy Dome
This route is towards the climbers left of the rock formation and to the right of the climbs "5.10+" and "Let Me Cry". I stumbled on to this climb a couple years ago and still can not get it out of my mind. Look for a never ending line of shiny bolts that lead up to and through a headwall feature about halfway up.The climb consists of three pitches of very well-protected, slab climbing on beautiful granite. No route finding required.P1: Step up and clip the first bolts and make a delicate move...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

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Photos of Little Scraggy Dome Slideshow Add Photo
Chuck Grossman and I following one of the routes. John Catto photo.
Chuck Grossman and I following one of the routes. ...
Brent following BJ up the first pitch of Two Jews Blues.
Brent following BJ up the first pitch of Two Jews ...
Little Scraggy Dome from across the canyon.  Feel free to use this pic to draw topos, etc.
Little Scraggy Dome from across the canyon. Feel ...
Michele at the first belay.
Michele at the first belay.
Little Scraggy isn't so little! What a great place....
Little Scraggy isn't so little! What a great place...
Comments on Little Scraggy Dome Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 1, 2004

The approach instructions above are very good. Here are a few more details: We missed the parking pullout the first time. I believe it was exactly at 2.2 miles as stated above, but it looked just like the many (very nice) camp sites that preceded it. The pullout is on the outside of a right-hand downhill bend. Look sharply back and left, and you will see a gate across the access road.

The approach is delightful, especially at this time of year with all the flowers. The 4x4 road is very obvious as it crosses the meadow and continues through the woods, very gently uphill. The Colorado Trail is also very obvious, and seems to be very popular with mountain bikers.

Almost immediately after turning left on the Colorado Trail you will see a small meadow on the right below the crag. Beyond the meadow are huge boulders. We did not see a climbers trail to the base of the crag, but it is easy to bypass the boulders by aiming for the far left of the meadow, angling left and up along a pine needle path between some boulders, back right across a slab, then up and left again on easy ground. This brings you right to the base of Two Jews Blues near the left side of the crag.

The approach takes 15 to 20 minutes.

By Scott Sills
May 29, 2009

In 2000, added rap anchor with Jim Hausmann to top of second pitch (can be done in one pitch) of Shear Class .11c. Great route!

By Allen Hill
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Oct 1, 2009

This is the best roadside rock in the Platte. Not really roadside, close to it. The granite is bullet.

By "H"
From: Manitou Springs
Nov 8, 2010

HOLY CALF BURNER!!!! This is one slab fest, calf killer. Forced me to remember why I don't do slabs so much! LOLOLOL!!! Otherwise it was a fun outing.

By ssp
Jun 7, 2011

Took a little recon to Lil' Scraggy today and It is quick to get to , with a few real nice campsites on the way and at the base.
BUT on a couple of routes I saw 4 bolts in 10 feet !?
I hope this is not a trend in this area !

By Chris Mack
May 27, 2012

@ssp: The bolts are not as close as you think. There are a lot of bolts on Two Jews, but it still isn't a sport route and it is not overbolted. You have to get on it to really get a feel for it.