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Little Rock Candy Mountain
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Little Rock Candy Crack 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 648
Submitted By: Ryan Avery on Mar 9, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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Some of the moves on this route are a little reach...

Description 

This route is the left slanting crack to the far right of M&M's Plain. Start below several sloping flared horizontal cracks. Head up the horizontals then gain the main crack and follow it up to the top.


Protection 

Pro to 2.5 inches. Belay from shallow flared crack at top.



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By Ryan Avery
Mar 9, 2005

Be careful to protect the horizontals and have your belayer stand close to the rock during this section. I think the initial 15 feet and the last 10 feet are the cruxes.

By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 30, 2007

Fun climb. I agree that the start is the crux. Up high, you don't actually need to use the crack (except for protection) but it is more fun if you do, and it's a good place to work on those jams!

By Kevin Craig
Nov 2, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

A bit easier than most other 5.7's in the Park and in the general area (e.g. Lazy Day which I led the day before). Make sure to take your time and find the easiest, most positive way up the initial horizontals and place good gear once you're high enough that it'll keep you off the deck. Generally excellent pro after the first 10 feet. Most easily done as a face climb using the crack for pro. One #3 Camalot for the pod at top crux, otherwise mainly nuts and small to medium cams.

By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Nov 7, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Fun climb and worth ticking while at the crag. I thought the line and features were fun. Tend to agree with Keven that it is easier than other area classics of the same grade.

Short but enjoyable.

By DJ Reyes
From: Northern Nevada
Jan 17, 2011

Fun route with plenty of holds.