Next route to the right of the Doggfather. This route has a bit of everything. Start with an in-your-face V5+ boulder problem with some hard clips and a long deadpoint until you reach the large juggy rail. Rest here to de-pump then continue on through some 5.11 face climbing until you get to the final roof problem which is about a V4/5 boulder problem complete with a sketchy mantle-topout to clip the anchors. Full value 12d. Hope to send it someday soon....
82 crag, 5th route from the left hand side of the wall, just right of the Doggfather
|By alan blade|
Mar 18, 2012
Broke a hold off between the 1st and 2nd bolt, definitely harder now but still 5.12d in my opinion. Movement is still the same but the hold is not as good and is 10 inches lower. This could make the move a stopper for shorter climbers.