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Raven Rocks: East Face
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Balancing Act 
Little Red Book 
Little Stiffy 
Stop The Madness 

Little Red Book 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jack Marshall, Sam Owings
Page Views: 1,073
Submitted By: duh on Dec 27, 2006
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The start of Little Red Book

Description 

The leftmost route on the east face. Follow the shallow right-facing corner past 4 bolts to the obvious beautiful left-facing red corner for 4 more bolts to the anchor.


Protection 

8 bolts, chain anchor.



Photos of Little Red Book Slideshow Add Photo
The upper "book" part of Little Red Book.
The upper "book" part of Little Red Book.
Some interesting clipping technique may be required.
Some interesting clipping technique may be require...
Comments on Little Red Book Add Comment
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By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Apr 9, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Starting moves are on slick rock. Route is fun enough although you find yourself climbing the right hand wall of the dihedral and clipping bolts behind you. Kinda weird in that sense. Shady and convenient.

By duh
Apr 10, 2007

Bolts are on the left wall so the rope runs smoothly and the falls are safe. At least that was the idea.... I did notice when I went back to do it last year, that you must keep an eye out for that 2nd bolt in the upper dihedral and position yourself to clip it. I guess it not a problem though, it has seen several hundred repeats.

By jt512
Administrator
Apr 11, 2007

"Shady and convenient."

If you think this route is "shady," you should see the new stuff Jack is putting up.

Jay

By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Apr 11, 2007

Pretty good route and slick at the start. Real nice in the upper book area.

By RNclimber
From: Riverside, Ca
Mar 13, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Agree with Susan's comment.

By C Miller
Administrator
Oct 13, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Juggy climbing to start then a single tricky move to get established in the upper corner system which is much easier than it looks from the ground. Long, varied and quite enjoyable for the grade.

By Matt N
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Nov 26, 2012
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c

Found a couple of 5.9 moves, poor rock quality in the middle, and was disappointed by the dihedral as it didn't climb anywhere near as cool as it looked.

By Clif Clap
May 20, 2013

The second bolt along the dihedral does stand out in terms of getting a good clipping position. Stemming works but the left wall is slick. Another option is stacking the feet in the crack along the flake. Feels strange but if you get it it's secure.