Little Red Book 

Starting moves are on slick rock. Route is fun enough although you find yourself climbing the right hand wall of the dihedral and clipping bolts behind you. Kinda weird in that sense. Shady and convenient.

Bolts are on the left wall so the rope runs smoothly and the falls are safe. At least that was the idea.... I did notice when I went back to do it last year, that you must keep an eye out for that 2nd bolt in the upper dihedral and position yourself to clip it. I guess it not a problem though, it has seen several hundred repeats.

"Shady and convenient."

If you think this route is "shady," you should see the new stuff Jack is putting up.

Jay

Pretty good route and slick at the start. Real nice in the upper book area.

Agree with Susan's comment.

Juggy climbing to start then a single tricky move to get established in the upper corner system which is much easier than it looks from the ground. Long, varied and quite enjoyable for the grade.

Found a couple of 5.9 moves, poor rock quality in the middle, and was disappointed by the dihedral as it didn't climb anywhere near as cool as it looked.

The second bolt along the dihedral does stand out in terms of getting a good clipping position. Stemming works but the left wall is slick. Another option is stacking the feet in the crack along the flake. Feels strange but if you get it it's secure.