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Sandy's Toe (Tower)
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Beardsley's Cabbage 
Double Bow Chimney 
Little Nubbin Route 

Little Nubbin Route 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a A0

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a A0 [details]
FA: Taylor Bond & Paul Bucher
New Route: Yes
Season: all
Page Views: 214
Submitted By: paul bucher on Mar 16, 2013
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rap back to tracks

Description 

pitch 1, crux is off the deck, pulling up out of the pod. continue nice fingers to a super fun lay around a block to a good stance. some tiny pro protects a couple of face/crack moves, then up left to the big ledge. gear belay. 50 feet. pitch 2, AO up the bolt ladder to the chains. one more bolt protects the moves to the top and summit register. 40 feet. down climb back to the chains. super fun climbing. great little summit.


Location 

starts in an overhanging pod on the north east corner of the tower. single 70 from chains to the deck. hike to rap station in first wash down stream (right,looking at river) from Gold Bar Canyon and rap back to the train tracks.


Protection 

standard desert rack to a #3 camalot; stoppers and aiders.



Photos of Little Nubbin Route Slideshow Add Photo
rap station wash visible in lower right corner
rap station wash visible in lower right corner
the route
the route
the start
the start
the lay
the lay
view from rap wash
view from rap wash
pitch 2
pitch 2
not sandy's toes
not sandy's toes
Comments on Little Nubbin Route Add Comment
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By drake buckingham
Apr 1, 2013

no fungus amongus in this toe, cleaning up nicely, fun route with tower finish.