Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Mechanical Man
Select Route:
Antifreeze T 
Auto Repair T 
Bending Nails T 
Emissions Testing T 
Finish Carpenter T 
Fluid Mechanics T 
Handy Man T 
Little Narrows T,S 
Mr. Goodwrench S 
Tooth, The T 

Little Narrows 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 170'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: B. Gillett, P. Bodnar, 2006
Season: Faces NW. Gets late afternoon sun
Page Views: 183
Submitted By: Tony B on Aug 9, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

This is the longest single pitch on Mechanical Man, ascending the longest part of Tier 2 for over 100' and easily linking into 'Finish Carpenter' for an additional 50' of excellent climber, for almost 200' in total.

The route starts off on some moderate, stopper-protected, crack moves to reach a series of 4 bolts (crux face climbing) before climbing some moderate rock leading up to 5.8- cracks and corners. These continue to ascend to the base of Finish Carpenter, which is climbed to a slung-block belay. You could continue to the bolts and chains on the standard Tier 3 rap anchor, but drag and rope wear might be problematic at that angle, as it is far off to the side.


Location 

To climb this route, fix and rap a 200' line from the ledge and standard rap atop P3 all the way to the lower right side of the rock as directed in the Gillett book. or.... Rap a single line 90 feet to the slab anchors amid Tier 2, then down hard and to climbers right on a single 70m line (60m may not reach) passing a bolt on a slab, and then around a corner to pass 3 more on a vertical face to a chossy but safe belay area.

Climb up past the bolts and onward and onward....


Protection 

4 draws for the bolted line (crux near bolt #3) and then up past a series of cracks and corners (stay left when in doubt) to the Base of Finish Carpenter and then up that (single pitch possible) to the belay ledge atop of Tier Three.



Comments on Little Narrows Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -