|Type:||Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|FA:||Bruce Bindner and Em Holland 01/2009|
|Season:||Sunny, south-facing route|
|Submitted By:||Bruce Bindner on Jan 16, 2009|
|Comments on Little Miss Sunshine||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Josh Cameron
From: Moab, Colorado
Aug 29, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Of the two routes on this rock, I felt this was the harder of the two. For me, the crux was the upper part of the route. I climbed it without any supplemental gear, but if I was bringing a beginning leader here, I'd tell them to bring some cams. It's easy enough getting to the first bolt, but a bad spot to fall.
Thanks for the route Bruce and Em!
By JC w KC redux
May 28, 2013
|This is a fun route but a bit reach dependent - my wife is only 5ft 5 and she had a hard time pulling off the slab onto the face. The slab moves felt like 3rd class to me - definitely not the crux. I agree with Josh that the gear is unnecessary but if you are going to place something a # 3 fits much better than a # 2 camalot. I placed it just because I could - I didn't need it to get to the bolt. Pulling that bulge/roof is crux 1 and again I agree with Josh that there is a 2nd crux higher up on the face.|