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DescriptionThe Little Matterhorn is the impressive chunk of rock jutting from the far end of the eastern ridge of Knobtop Mountain. Its eastern flanks are strewn with large cliff bands, while its west ridge holds a nice 4th class scramble to the summit. It seems there is much exploring to be done on this peak, with only a couple of established routes to the summit...one being the west ridge and another documented in Gillett's High Peaks guide of the Northeast Face Direct (II, 5.7). A large cliff band below the east face harbors some impressive lines as well. If anyone else knows of other routes that have been established on this peak, please feel free to add them. Getting ThereThere are three ways to approach the Little Matterhorn, the first two of which start at Bear Lake. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Little Matterhorn:
Southeast Face 5.5 Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 600 feet
North Pillar Left 5.8 R Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 500 feet, Grade II
Featured Route For Little Matterhorn
East Corner 5.10- CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Little Matterhorn
On the east face of Little Matterhorn is a giant, hanging, right-facing corner that starts about 150 feet off the ground. A wonderful, though vegetated flake system leads up to the base of this corner. Begin at a shallow, right-facing corner that arches up and right. Climb up about 20 feet and negotiate a series of tricky face and corner moves (crux). Continue straight up through a shallow chimney and some nice cracks to a small, grassy belay ledge. From here, a grass-filled fist crack leads up ...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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