|Bell Buttress - Main Crag
This route climbs the narrow buttress directly above the gully which splits Bell Buttress. It is the first route you encounter as you scramble westward towards the upper bench from Cosmosis and can be distinguished by a fixed wire at mid-height.
Climb through the strange, down-pointing overlaps which define the buttress, aiming for a crack which splits the final roof before it trends left on easier ground to the bolt anchors atop the Mystery Arete out left. Lower from here with a 60-meter cord.
Though this route is reasonably well-protected, the rock down low is somewhat friable and there are two hanging daggers which you must negotiate (don't place gear in these) en route to summit glory. If someone were to trundle these, this might actually be a safe route.
Your standard Boulder Canyon crack rack should get you up this pitch. The bottom takes small wires and TCUs, but the crack opens up at the top, so bring double #2 and #3 Camalots.
|By Michael Komarnitsky|
From: Seattle, WA
Sep 10, 2001
I heard there's a sweet mono you really have to work on this one....