Little King  5.10a PG13

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Consensus:  5.10a [details] FA:  unknown Submitted By:  Luke Clarke on Oct 26, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Lenny Miller faces the crux headwall of Little Kin...

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Private Property issues MORE INFO >>> The West Bank / Wild West / Secret Crag has been problematic for years due to access concerns. There have been negative encounters with gun-toting landowners who have alleged that the entire mountain is on private property. Typical approaches involve brief crossing of railroad property which appears to be prohibited. Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite. Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

About 20 feet climber's left (west) of P.B.S. lies a flat terrace with a horizontal tree. Little King ascends heavily Huecoed rock to a dangerous first clip. The route climbs past six bolts and a fixed pin near the bottom. The upper headwall is airy and challenging climbing but not as fierce as it might appear from the start.

Location 

This is the western most route described in the 'Garden of Stone' area described in the excellent new Steve Levin's Eldorado guide (p. 398).

Protection 

A little trad gear is optional. A blue Tri-cam goes in a horizontal between the fifth and sixth bolt.