Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
El Capitan Base Routes
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bluffer, The 
Captain Hook, Left 
Captain Hook, Right 
Delectable Pinnacle, Right  
El Cap Tree 
Footstool, Right, The 
Hardly Pinnacle 
Indubious Battle 
La Arista 
La Cosita, Left 
La Cosita, Right 
La Escuela 
Little John, Left 
Little John, Right 
Mark of Art 
Masquerade/Call Me Ishmael 
Moby Dick 
Moby Dick, Left 
Party Mix 
Peter Left 
Peter Pan 
Pine Line 
Pterodactyl Terrace, Left 
Pterodactyl Terrace, Right 
Reeds Leads 
Sacherer Cracker 
Salathe (pitch 1) 
Seedy Leads 
Short But Thin 
Slack ( center), The 
Slack, Left, The 
Sparkling Give-away 
West Buttress (pitch 1&2) 

Little John, Left 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Dan Doody, Bob Kamps, Galen Rowell, Wally Upton, 1962
Page Views: 1,600
Submitted By: Cory on May 3, 2010
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
LJ, left
Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>>


Start by scrambling up to the start of the short finger/hand crack in the left facing corner, and follow this to a small ledge at the base of the 3-4" crack in the corner. I found getting established in the crack to be the crux. Follow this to bolted anchors. I was barely able to jam my fists in the small constrictions, and I have somewhat large fists.


Located in the left facing corner a short distance uphill from Little John Right.


Single rack to 4"

Comments on Little John, Left Add Comment
Show which comments
By Cory
From: Boise, ID
May 3, 2010

We did this as a warmup before Moby Dick, and I thought it worked well. This crack is similar in size and somewhat steeper than the crack at the top of Moby Dick (although Moby Dick is not in a corner). This climb is fun, but I wish the fists portion were longer . . .

By Alexey
From: San Jose
May 3, 2010

If you wish the fists portion longer and about same difficulty go to Reed's and climb first two pitches of Flatus 5.9 with direct left start

By Skot Richards
From: Lakewood
Apr 8, 2012

Just did this route april 2012... Super fun, good crack climb...

By daveisclimbing
From: Oakland, CA
Sep 24, 2013

Great climb to practice your butterfly technique.