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Little Hellion 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Franziska and James Garrett, Aug. 1993
Page Views: 3,505
Submitted By: kBobby on Aug 30, 2003
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (42)
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not informative but scenic. jermy kellog rapelling...

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  • As for all Hellgate areas
  • Park your car off of the main canyon road.

  • Description 

    This is one of the best sport climbs I've ever done. Climb the arete on Tower One starting in the gully between Towers One and Two, eventually gaining a long white slab.

    Rappel the route with two ropes.


    Ten bolts to a metolius rap hanger with chain.

    Photos of Little Hellion Slideshow Add Photo
    Trey topping out on Little Hellion
    Trey topping out on Little Hellion
    Joel Rushton cruising the arete
    Joel Rushton cruising the arete
    Jake Werner on slabby upper section, 20ft from the anchor
    Jake Werner on slabby upper section, 20ft from the...
    Comments on Little Hellion Add Comment
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    By philfell
    From: Olympic Valley, CA
    Jun 26, 2005
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

    This climb is great!!!! It is possible to get off this route with one 60m rope. From the anchors on Little Hellion rappell to the anchors on Medussa, from there a 60m rope will get you down. Make sure you find the center of your rope because a 60m barly makes it.

    By Charles Konopa
    Sep 12, 2005
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

    Use at least a 60m rope. If your belayer stands high in the gully and you lower to high in the gully, a 60m rope just barely make it. Still, make sure your belayer ties into the end of the rope for safety. This will help you avoid a 10-15 foot fall into the talus, scrapes and bruises.

    By D Argyle
    From: Englewood, CO
    Jul 2, 2006
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

    There are 10(!) bolts + a 2 bolt anchor with rings. We used a sixty and had plenty of rope for lowering and rapping, just belay high in the gully and lower/rap to the right of the tree and scramble down.

    By David Shiembob
    From: slc, ut
    Jun 17, 2007

    Did this as a warmup today, I didn't think it was that great, but fun climbing. Belaying at the top and rapping with a 60m seemed like the best option to me.

    By e rock
    From: portland, or
    Jul 19, 2007

    as far as belaying in the gulley goes, i have always been told to stand clear of the gully and have witnessed rocks speed out of that thing. they call it helmet gate for a reason.

    By Boissal
    From: Small Lake, UT
    Sep 19, 2011

    I witnessed a girl come within 12" of having her brain splattered all over the place by a piece of choss coming down the gully to her left. Or was it falling from the top? Either way, don't get dead.