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little gear and falling...
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By NickMartel
From Tucson, Arizona
Sep 11, 2011

The tiny Tri-Cam is bomber.


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By Christian
From Casa do Cacete
Sep 11, 2011
Ooops...

The white Tricam is only 3 KN, the placement may stay in but the sling will probably break..I'm only saying this cause I watched it happen,w about 70 feet of rope out, a 10 foot fall ( which then turned into 25) and a fairly soft catch (ATC + much lighter belayer)


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By Ed Wright
Sep 12, 2011
Magic Ed

There's some good advice on this thread.

Just place the best gear you can the best you can then forget about it and concentrate on the climbing.


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By Will S
From Joshua Tree
Sep 12, 2011

The OO and O tcus are rated 5kn, the equivalent size C3s are 6kn and 7kn respectively. A #5 Stopper is only 6kn.

They are plenty strong enough to hold falls. I've whipped on all of them. Biggest issue with the small cams is, as someone said above, there isn't much leeway between tipped out and fully engaged. In very parallel sided cracks, no issue, in very irregular or grainy rock it can be a big deal getting a good placement.

Set more than one piece, use screamers, whatever...it's the std bag of tricks. If you're really in doubt, set the piece(s), lower in from above and drop a haulbag full of water/rocks/etc from the crux onto the piece.

Or go climb another route. At the end of the day it's just a rock climb.


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By Josh Kornish
Sep 12, 2011
The Roach

I've taken a 6 foot fall on a 00 Mastercam and it was bomber. It's not a very big fall but it's better than it would have been if I hadn't placed gear. Get some micro nuts to back it up


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By Eric D
From Gnarnia
Sep 12, 2011
Born again on the last move of the Red Dihedral, high Sierras.

Definitely equalize.

I would be the most concerned about the rock that you are climbing on. I redpointed a route 2 weeks ago that had nothing but 0 cams and below for 15 feet throughout the crux. But, it was on nice hard basalt that wouldn't flex under lobe pressure and thus I wasn't worried at all. Every cam that I placed would have held a whipper.


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By Geir
From Tucson, AZ
Sep 17, 2011
Toofast

Eric D wrote:
Definitely equalize. I would be the most concerned about the rock that you are climbing on. I redpointed a route 2 weeks ago that had nothing but 0 cams and below for 15 feet throughout the crux. But, it was on nice hard basalt that wouldn't flex under lobe pressure and thus I wasn't worried at all. Every cam that I placed would have held a whipper.


+1

In good rock I've seen 0 TCUs and blue aliens hold pretty significant falls, but doubling up doesn't hurt!


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