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little gear and falling...
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Sep 11, 2011
The tiny Tri-Cam is bomber. NickMartel
From Tucson, Arizona
Joined Aug 30, 2011
1,456 points
Sep 11, 2011
The white Tricam is only 3 KN, the placement may stay in but the sling will probably break..I'm only saying this cause I watched it happen,w about 70 feet of rope out, a 10 foot fall ( which then turned into 25) and a fairly soft catch (ATC + much lighter belayer) Christian
From Casa do Cacete
Joined Jul 22, 2005
1,757 points
Sep 12, 2011
Magic Ed
There's some good advice on this thread.

Just place the best gear you can the best you can then forget about it and concentrate on the climbing.
Ed Wright
Joined May 14, 2006
332 points
Sep 12, 2011
The OO and O tcus are rated 5kn, the equivalent size C3s are 6kn and 7kn respectively. A #5 Stopper is only 6kn.

They are plenty strong enough to hold falls. I've whipped on all of them. Biggest issue with the small cams is, as someone said above, there isn't much leeway between tipped out and fully engaged. In very parallel sided cracks, no issue, in very irregular or grainy rock it can be a big deal getting a good placement.

Set more than one piece, use screamers, whatever...it's the std bag of tricks. If you're really in doubt, set the piece(s), lower in from above and drop a haulbag full of water/rocks/etc from the crux onto the piece.

Or go climb another route. At the end of the day it's just a rock climb.
Will S
From Joshua Tree
Joined Nov 15, 2006
1,275 points
Sep 12, 2011
Humboldt Bouldering
I've taken a 6 foot fall on a 00 Mastercam and it was bomber. It's not a very big fall but it's better than it would have been if I hadn't placed gear. Get some micro nuts to back it up Josh Kornish
From tufaclimbing.com
Joined Sep 16, 2009
547 points
Sep 12, 2011
Born again on the last move of the Red Dihedral, h...
Definitely equalize.

I would be the most concerned about the rock that you are climbing on. I redpointed a route 2 weeks ago that had nothing but 0 cams and below for 15 feet throughout the crux. But, it was on nice hard basalt that wouldn't flex under lobe pressure and thus I wasn't worried at all. Every cam that I placed would have held a whipper.
Eric D
From Gnarnia
Joined Nov 29, 2006
223 points
Sep 17, 2011
Toofast
Eric D wrote:
Definitely equalize. I would be the most concerned about the rock that you are climbing on. I redpointed a route 2 weeks ago that had nothing but 0 cams and below for 15 feet throughout the crux. But, it was on nice hard basalt that wouldn't flex under lobe pressure and thus I wasn't worried at all. Every cam that I placed would have held a whipper.


+1

In good rock I've seen 0 TCUs and blue aliens hold pretty significant falls, but doubling up doesn't hurt!
Geir
From Tucson, AZ
Joined Jun 7, 2006
3,344 points


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