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Little Finger 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 600'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 12,592
Submitted By: Brian Aitken on Jan 17, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (46)
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seconding little finger (first pitch)

Description 

No real crux moves, pretty straight forward slab/crack climbing. Bring some snacks and beverages to hang out at the base when you're all done - makes a great spot for dinner and a swim, just make sure to pack it out.

Location 

Start at the lowest point of the cliff scramble up right 20' above the water - follow the crack system...

Protection 

standard trad rack - don't recall any fixed gear. People generally say the route goes between 5.5 and 5.7, so I've rated it 5.6 - I don't recall thinking it was difficult at all, except that my toes were hurting something fierce when I was done...


Photos of Little Finger Slideshow Add Photo
Climber on Little Finger
Climber on Little Finger
Roger's Rock , Lake George
Roger's Rock , Lake George
Roger's rock Lake George NY
Roger's rock Lake George NY
This sure makes it look steeper than it is!  This climb was the first time I had people in boats cheer for me.  Pretty cool!
This sure makes it look steeper than it is! This ...
Near the end of P3 of Little Finger.
Near the end of P3 of Little Finger.
Roger's Rock approach . About 10 minutes before we fell in the lake climbing ashore .
Roger's Rock approach . About 10 minutes before we...
Start of first pitch, nice shaded area to belay from, good protection on pitch, almost 200 ft to belay point.
Start of first pitch, nice shaded area to belay fr...

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By Puzman
Jun 29, 2009

5.6 it's not. The guidebook rates it at 5.5, and except for a short crux section at the beginning of P3, most of the climbing is much easier than that. Gear is good for most of the route, though there is some pretty hollow rock on P2 and the beginning of P3. Definitely gets hot- lots of sun! Position above the lake is spectacular- one of my favorite climbs for the views alone!
By Gunkiemike
Aug 21, 2009

Two ropes make the rap much easier. With one rope you'll be tunneling into the woods to find the next slung tree.
By Eli Kramer
From: Saratoga Springs, NY
Sep 14, 2009
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Agreed, two ropes if you can. There is a fixed anchor (two pitons) at the end of the first pitch. I didn't use any gear bigger than a .75 Camalot, though you could probably place a #1.
By al piner
Oct 24, 2009
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13

Fun climb with adventurous approach .We took canoes and ended up in 50 degree Lake George when we fell out going ashore to the rocks .Tip: I put my life jacket on my pack because I can swim and it cannot . It worked , no diving for the rack ! A windy rainy October morning but the sun came out and we were semi dry by pitch two .

Pitch one was wet and slippery due to morning rain but was still within its 5.5 rating . Off the third pitch anchors we made it down on two double rope rappels with 60M ropes.The crux was paddling back for a half hour into a 20 mph headwind !
By doligo
Jun 14, 2010

Very fun route. As the book says, there is a real danger of burning the feet of your soles - I did mine! If you don't feel like paddling, you can hitch a ride on a motorboat from Hague Marina. Tourists love it!
By Puzman
Oct 12, 2010

Did the route for the 3rd time this past weekend, this time leading the Direct Finish on the 3rd pitch. Guidebook calls it 5.7+, which feels about right. Protects well with small-medium nuts and cams. A beautiful clean line, straight up the crack to bolt anchors. Spices up an otherwise very easy route. Highly recommended.
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Jun 20, 2011
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Can't stress enough how much small gear this route will eat up. P1 is a long pitch and while you can (and I did) run it out a bit, by the book G pro placements will likely mean depleting much of your rack. P1 nothing bigger than a #1, but did use a #3 to protect the start of P2, a #1 as a first piece in the crack below the small roof/bulge at the top of the belay for P2, and a #2 on P3. You might be able to climb through these sections to different (smaller) gear, but I felt pretty locked in and the spots I chose seemed 'right'.

Also can't stress how awesome this climb is. Also did the first two pitches on a neighboring Screaming Meaney (5.7 pitches) with awesome moves on the second pitch. All the climbing we did ranked better than Chapel Pond slab, which is to say just how spectacular this location is. 5 star climbing by any measure.

Beware that early season (like my second trip yesterday revealed) means a lot of debris from budding trees in the crack. Spent a lot of time cleaning holds and the crack when placing gear.
By JonP756
From: Mahwah, NJ
Aug 24, 2014

Direct finish felt easy for Adirondack 5.7+ Lots of hollow rock on p2.. It's good to belay 15 or 20 below the direct roof because the gear is more solid. I ended up down climbing 15 or so..
By ml242
Sep 1, 2014

Rule #1 bring small gear

Rule #2 read rule number 1 (there are quite a few abandoned cams right now)
By Ian Dibbs
Sep 4, 2014

I am surprised that more haven't exclaimed ..... the sun ! The route is positioned to receive full day sunshine. You will get fried between 10:00 and about 4:00, be warned if it is warm and sunny. And yes, you will probably have an audience from boaters.