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 ADVANCED
Rogers Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bill Route T 
Little Finger T 
Little Finger Direct T 
Matrix Reloaded T,S 
Matrix, The S 
Screaming Matrix T,S 
Screaming Meaney T 

Little Finger Direct 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 700'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 2,240
Submitted By: Brian Aitken on Jan 18, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

Pitch 1: Slabby 5.7 with 4 bolts up to an anchor.
Pitch 2: 5.8-, head up the loose flake then up the slab to meet with Little Finger.
Pitches 3-4: Final pitches of Little Finger

Location 

Start to the right of Little Finger (about 30 feet).

Protection 

draws & trad gear


Comments on Little Finger Direct Add Comment
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By tom rosecrans
Jul 1, 2011

The route described here is the Bill Route, p-1. Little Finger Direct actually climbed the face about 10' rt of Little Finger, unprotected except for a poor upside down pin at about half height, belaying in the left facing corner just rt. of LF. Here the idea of a totally separate line failed and it was back to LF to just below the roof with P-3 taking the classic finger crack above.
By Jaysen Henderson
From: Bronx NY
Aug 5, 2011

lots of fun, after you pull the roof you get all these really cool discontinuous finger locks, there was a small crack i belayed from but im pretty sure i could've made it to the bolt anchors.
By Gunkiemike
Jul 10, 2012

At the risk of sounding like an old fart, there didn't used to be any bolt anchor atop P3 and a belay on gear above the steepest part of the pitch was required or else you wouldn't reach the trees. Best view on the whole slab from that belay!

Anyone climbing in the vicinity of Little Finger would do well to take a good hard look at the black streak that is the original P1 of LF Direct. Tom is maybe a bit too modest in his comment above; the fact is that those guys climbed a full ropelength of unprotected, unknown slab. Basically it was a free solo. The comment in the current guidebook is spot on: (paraphrasing) "If you want to experience it the way it used to be, climb this pitch". But the reality is that with the less-than-lethal options of Bill's Route and Two Bits so close by, 99% of today's climbers will not lead LFD's first pitch. Same idea with linking Meaney and Matrix, to avoid the former's 100 ft runout on the top pitch. Linkups are simply the best way to enjoy the fine climbing that RR has to offer.
By Robert Hall
Administrator
Mar 17, 2015

A couple of comments:

1) I spoke with Jim Kolkotronus the weekend after his F.A. and the F.A. went up the now-standard "5.7" crack of P3. Someone else put in the P3 that went to the right.

2) Rosecrans is correct (of course he is: he did the FA)...P 1 (and "P2") of The "real" L.F. Direct climbs the unprotected rock about 10-15 ft right of the L.F. crack. When I Top Roped it (a decade+ ago) I never saw the "driven upside-down piton", but there are some thin cracks that start about 150 ft up (P2 ?)

3) The best rap line from the top of P3 of the "Direct" move left about 50 ft to the top bolts of Screaming Meany and rap that line with 2 ropes. Be careful not to jam the knot in the "Meany" Crack.
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