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Aug 11, 2012
i m looking for some informations to this crag private?
t you
odile from quebec
From wilmington
Joined Nov 29, 2010
38 points
Aug 11, 2012
me
rockclimbing.com/routes/North_...

Most people think of Little Falls as Moss Island.

There is a guide online to Moss Island and the other crags.
Paul Deagle
From Geneseo, NY
Joined Nov 9, 2010
336 points
Aug 11, 2012
Hey Odile,

There are two separate areas to Little Falls: Moss Island located on the south side of the river and at Lock Number 17 of the Erie Canal and the Dihedrals, which is on the north side of the river.

There are extensive PDF guides for both areas by Gary Thomann online. Moss Island holds shorter TR and some trad routes. The Dihedrals has a mixture of sport and trad and is much taller.

Both areas can be a furnace in the warmer periods due to the black rock color and complete south face orientation. This makes for wonderful cold weather climbing. Both areas are stiff and sandbag, in my opinion. But the climbing is wonderful and being by the Erie Canal is unique.

The access to Moss Island is cool, however, the Dihedrals is located on private property and as such permission must be granted by a phone call.

If you have trouble finding the guides online...I could e-mail my copies to you. I just PM'd you. The guides will give more indepth information and complete historical history of the area.

Good Luck,

AB
Blissab
Joined Dec 13, 2009
20 points
Aug 11, 2012
hotlum / bolum route on Shasta
I've searched google for the dihedral guide for LF. I can't find it. Would you mind posting it? Josh Wood
From Oneonta, NY
Joined Nov 16, 2011
15 points
Aug 13, 2012
Push-5.12C at Good Luck Lake Cliffs
The guidebook that Gary T. worked on was an updated/expanded guidebook adopted from Geoff Childs who did earlier guidebooks for both Moss Island and the Dihedrals in Little Falls.

The online guidebook to the Dihedrals area has been removed from online sources due to ongoing conflicts with the new landowner and I have also been informed that a majority of the fixed hardware that was installed over at the Dihedrals has recently been removed as well. Keep that in mind if you plan on doing any sport climbing over there...you might get on a route only to find that hangers etc. have been removed. Unfortunate circumstance with the loss of that property no doubt, there was a bunch of good climbing over there.

You can still contact the landowner to climb at the Dihedrals...$10/pp/day was the going rate last time I was in the area. Michael Lomis is who you're looking for. Lost his cell phone number at some point...i think it's posted on rock climbing.com
Justin Sanford
From Broadalbin, New York
Joined May 26, 2009
544 points
Aug 13, 2012
Black Boulder Problem, sent after a generous skin ...
I've got a PDF of the CHilds guide if anyone wants it. PM me if you're interested. AdamB
From Chattanooga, TN
Joined Jul 17, 2008
1,052 points
Aug 14, 2012
hotlum / bolum route on Shasta
Thanks for the info guys.

Pm sent for the guide.
Josh Wood
From Oneonta, NY
Joined Nov 16, 2011
15 points
Aug 14, 2012
Josh Wood wrote:
Thanks for the info guys. Pm sent for the guide.

Hey Josh,

Did you receive the Moss Island PDF guides that I sent to your e-mail address?

AB
Blissab
Joined Dec 13, 2009
20 points
Aug 15, 2012
hotlum / bolum route on Shasta
Blissab wrote:
Hey Josh, Did you receive the Moss Island PDF guides that I sent to your e-mail address? AB


No, I didn't get anything from you, but Adam sent me a couple files.

Thanks to both of you guys for getting (or trying to )that info to me so quickly.
Josh Wood
From Oneonta, NY
Joined Nov 16, 2011
15 points
Aug 16, 2012
Yes, I took the Dihedrals guide off the site. Sorry for that, it has some great climbing and me and my friends spent a lot of time working on it. Then we ran into problems with the present owner and I took the guide off. You may not know that the county owned all the land that the Dihedrals, Recycle Rock, Wind Wall, etc. sat on and sold it in 1999 for $500. Isn't that a bummer. Gary C Thomann
Joined Aug 14, 2012
0 points


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