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Little Falls
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Dihedrals, The 
Moss Island 
Recycle Rock (Ron's Rock) 

Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

'Gate SingleTrack
The best singletrack found in Hamilton NY. Bike trails intersect through the running trails. Near Hamilton village, NY
From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Little Falls 


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Lat, Long: 43.0408, -74.8567 Map
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Administrator: Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Jeff Welch on Jun 5, 2006

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Description 

Little Falls is a collection of small crags near the town of Little Falls, NY. While this is certainly no destination area, it is a good choice for climbers in Western and Central New York who want to climb outside but can't make the drive to the Gunks or Adirondacks. The various areas contain a mix of climbing types, with a mix of toprope, trad, sport, and bouldering.

Moss Island
Situated in the middle of the Mohawk River, Moss Island is far and away the most popular of the Little Falls crags. The island's main feature is a reasonably long 30-40' high cliff on the southern edge of the island along the river. Most of the routes here are best suited for toproping, though a few can be led with natural gear. Several opportunities for bouldering exist on the northern side of the island as well.

The Dihedrals
Located on the northern banks of the Mohawk River, downstream from Moss Island. Access here is questionable,as you must cross the railroad tracks to reach the crags. Though many of the routes here can be toproped, many take good protection and are best experienced on the lead.


Getting There 

The town of Little Falls appears on most maps. It is just off the NY State Thruway about 20 miles east of Utica. To get there, take the NY State Thruway to exit 29A (RTE-169) towards Little Falls/Dolgeville. Follow Route 169 for about a mile until you reach the large bridge spanning the river, then follow the directions to each specific crag.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Little Falls:
Jeff Loves Eileen   5.4     Trad, TR, 40 feet   Moss Island
The Thinker   5.7     TR, 35 feet   Moss Island
Crucifix   5.8-     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90 feet, Grade V   Moss Island
Devil Won't Care   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 65 feet   The Dihedrals
Satan's Ceiling   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 65 feet   The Dihedrals
Curbar Edge   5.9     TR, 30 feet   Moss Island
The Dreamer   5.10     TR, 35 feet   Moss Island
Fred P. Jones   5.10+     TR, 30 feet   Moss Island
Devil's Corner   5.11b     Trad, 1 pitch, 65 feet   The Dihedrals
Day Tripper   5.11b     Trad, TR, 70 feet   The Dihedrals
Trick Bag   5.11+     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   The Dihedrals
Dopamine, aka "Juicer", "Double Arete"   5.12d PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 30 feet   The Dihedrals
Black Arete   5.12d     TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet   The Dihedrals
Arete Style Dysfunction   5.13a     Sport, 70 feet   The Dihedrals
The Juicer   5.13-     Sport, 1 pitch, 30 feet   The Dihedrals
Browse More Classics in Little Falls

Featured Route For Little Falls
The major dihedral on the left is Devil's Corner.

Devil's Corner 5.11b  NY : Little Falls : The Dihedrals
Wow..one of the most aesthetic lines in Little Falls. A laser cut dihedral with the absence of face holds for the crux section....[more]   Browse More Classics in NY


Photos of Little Falls Slideshow Add Photo
Moss Island bouldering

Moss Island bouldering

V 3/4 on the backside of Moss Island.

V 3/4 on the backside of Moss Island.

Sofi working a new line @ Moss Island

Sofi working a new line @ Moss Island


Comments on Little Falls Add Comment
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By Rafiki
Jul 8, 2007

Be careful of the police in this town. I was stopped by an officer with too much time on his hands and it was most unpleasant.

By kc2klq
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 21, 2008

No doubt...
be on your best behavior in town... if not and the cops decide to screw with you you will regret it...

too much time in an understatement... trust...

By Gunkiemike
Sep 7, 2009

Traffic stop? Or did The Man come hassle you for climbing?

By James Otey
From: NH
Sep 25, 2010

Guide is at thomannengineering.web.officelive.com/default.aspx

By Anthony ayala
Apr 7, 2011

Anyone know wat the conditions are out at moss island

By NYClimber
From: Schenectady, NY
Jul 6, 2012

We've been climbing there all summer and no one has encountered any issues with any police officers, etc. As of now - climbers no longer have to go into town to get a climbing permit for this area.

By Ben
Jul 6, 2012

Found - one cam. If you can describe it, you'll get it back.

By Justin Sanford
From: Broadalbin, New York
Jul 10, 2012

I have just been informed that all of the fixed hardware has been removed from the cliffs that are on private property. The only previosuly bolted routes that still have hardware to my knowledge are "The Juicer" and "Black Arete". This was a result of continued conflicts with the new owner and the lack of accessibility.