Little Falls is a collection of small crags near the town of Little Falls, NY. While this is certainly no destination area, it is a good choice for climbers in Western and Central New York who want to climb outside but can't make the drive to the Gunks or Adirondacks. The various areas contain a mix of climbing types, with a mix of toprope, trad, sport, and bouldering.
Moss Island Situated in the middle of the Mohawk River, Moss Island is far and away the most popular of the Little Falls crags. The island's main feature is a reasonably long 30-40' high cliff on the southern edge of the island along the river. Most of the routes here are best suited for toproping, though a few can be led with natural gear. Several opportunities for bouldering exist on the northern side of the island as well.
The Dihedrals Located on the northern banks of the Mohawk River, downstream from Moss Island. Access here is questionable,as you must cross the railroad tracks to reach the crags. Though many of the routes here can be toproped, many take good protection and are best experienced on the lead.
The town of Little Falls appears on most maps. It is just off the NY State Thruway about 20 miles east of Utica. To get there, take the NY State Thruway to exit 29A (RTE-169) towards Little Falls/Dolgeville. Follow Route 169 for about a mile until you reach the large bridge spanning the river, then follow the directions to each specific crag.
One of the best routes at Little Falls and listed at 5.10+ in the old guidebook, Fred P. Jones is a great, steep, sustained route, probably in the low 5.11 range. The lower section is the route's technical crux, climbing through good crimps to gain a big horizontal jug "rest." The top half of the route gets progressivly more overhanging with big moves through good-but-not-great holds....[more]Browse More Classics in NY
I have just been informed that all of the fixed hardware has been removed from the cliffs that are on private property. The only previosuly bolted routes that still have hardware to my knowledge are "The Juicer" and "Black Arete". This was a result of continued conflicts with the new owner and the lack of accessibility.