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Elevation: 6,200 ft
GPS: 39.7432, -105.2991
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 203,905 total · 722/month
Shared By: Michael Komarnitsky on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This rock does look surprisingly like its European big brother although far more modest in size. Most of the routes on this rock are 1-pitch sport climbs, but the rock also boasts one of the longer sport routes in the canyon, Too (5.12a), at 4 pitches. There are some traditionally-protected climbs here with potential for plenty of traditional, exploring-type climbing above the sport routes...beware of rockfall. The sport climbs on this rock are well-protected and fun. During the summer months, it's a nice but popular place to climb as it keeps the shade longer than many rocks in the area and the approach is minimal. Some of the routes on the right side of the cliff have tags on the 1st bolt with names and ratings.

L->R:

A. Black Hole, 11, 1p, 30', gear.

B. Black Haul, 10, 1p, 25', gear. Alcove.

C. Delusions of Grandeur, 12, 1p, 25', bolts.

arete

D1. The DeCappitator, 13-, 1p, 75', bolts.

D2. Bonehead, 10, 1p, 50', bolts.

E. Conehead, 11, 1p, 50', bolts.

F. Unknown, 10, 1p, 50', bolts.

G1. Headline, 10a, 1p, 60', bolts & gear. Crack.

G2. Trouthead, 10 or 11, 1p, 60', bolts.

H. Eiger Sanction, 10+, 1p, 80', bolts.

I. Eiffel Tower, 10+, 1p, 80', bolts.

J. Herbal Essence, 9+, 1p, 80', bolts.

K. First Impressions, 9, 1p, 80', bolts.

L. Unknown, 9, 1p, 80', TR.

M. Footloose, 10-, 1p, 80', bolts.

N. Unknown, 10, 1p, 80', TR.

P. Eiger Direct, 11+, 1p, 80', bolts.

Q. Radometer in the Red Zone, 11, 1p, 65', bolts.

Some of the following routes are best done with 2 ropes or a 70m rope:

R. Too!, 12-, 4p, 135m, bolts & gear.

S. The Nordwand, 11, 2p, 80', bolts.

T. Natural Selection, 11-, 1p, 75', bolts.

U. Tierra del Fuego, 11 or 12-, 1p, 100', bolts. Above Tierra Del Fuego (extension), 12-, 105', bolts.

V. Bush Administration, 10, 1p, 115', bolts.

Top of approach trail.

W. Busch Gardens, 10, 1p, 120', bolts..

X. The Naked Hedge, 10-, 1p, 100', bolts.

Y. The Green Zone, 11-, 1p, 100', bolts.

Z1. Persistent Vegetative State, 10, 1p, 115', bolts.

Z2. Free Up the Weed, 10 or 11-, 1p, 100', bolts.

AA. The Decider, 10-, 1p, 100', bolts.

BB. Misunderestimate, 10, 1p, 100', bolts.

CC. Tsunami of Charisma, 11-, 1p, 115', bolts.

DD. "Is Our Children Learning?", 10-, 1p, 115', bolts.

Getting There Suggest change

This is 3.3 miles past the west side of tunnel one (which is ~4.5 miles from CO 93 & US 6). You pass over a bridge, and it's directly on your south/left side. Park on a small pullout on the north/right side, or use a larger dirt pullout downstream/before the bridge.

31 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Little Eiger Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Little Eiger

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 567
Herbal Essence
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 776
First Impressions
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 421
Footloose
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 414
Headline
Trad, Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 577
Persistent Vegetative State
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 447
Busch Gardens
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 334
The Naked Hedge
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 544
Bush Administration
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 232
The Green Zone
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 184
The Nordwand
Sport 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 287
Conehead
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 162
Tsunami Of Charisma
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 169
Radometer in the Red Zone
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 254
Eiger Direct
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 105
Too!
Sport 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Herbal Essence
 567
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
First Impressions
 776
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Footloose
 421
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Headline
 414
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport
Persistent Vegetative State
 577
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Busch Gardens
 447
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
The Naked Hedge
 334
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Bush Administration
 544
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
The Green Zone
 232
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
The Nordwand
 184
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 2 pitches
Conehead
 287
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Tsunami Of Charisma
 162
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Radometer in the Red Zone
 169
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Eiger Direct
 254
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Too!
 105
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport 4 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Little Eiger »

Sun & Shade Suggest change

Routes Mostly Face: South
Sunny Roughly 6am to 12pm during high season
6am
8pm

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