BETA PHOTO: 1. Natural Selection, 11a/b. 2. The Nordwand, 11b/...
Description
This rock does look surprisingly like its European big brother although far more modest in size. Most of the routes on this rock are 1-pitch sport climbs, but the rock also boasts one of the longer sport routes in the canyon, Too (5.12a), at 4 pitches. There are some traditionally-protected climbs here with potential for plenty of traditional, exploring-type climbing above the sport routes...beware of rockfall. The sport climbs on this rock are well-protected and fun. During the summer months, it's a nice but popular place to climb as it keeps the shade longer than many rocks in the area and the approach is minimal. Some of the routes on the right side of the cliff have tags on the 1st bolt with names and ratings.
This is 3.3 miles past the west side of tunnel one (which is ~4.5 miles from CO 93 & US 6). You pass over a bridge, and it's directly on your south/left side. Park on a small pullout on the north/right side, or use a larger dirt pullout downstream/before the bridge.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Little Eiger:
Travis Trigg and I worked hard last week to get Tsunami of Charisma established. We deserve equal credit for the route. This one is destined to become a Little Eiger classic!There is a dog tag on a hangerless bolt, with route name, grade and length at the base of the climb. Tsunami of Charisma really is a full 35 meters!Temporarily, the second from the last climb to the right (west). Place a longer draw on the first bolt to avoid drag. Flash pump out the big roof 5.11, it's not as chossy as it ...[more]Browse More Classics in CO
See the discussion under Headline for the new bolting activity, though that made me more confused. I did the leftmost line, just W of the arete. Was it Bonehead? It seemed like 10b or c at the top, but there were more than just 5 bolts. Maybe Bonehead is just to the right of this line. Or, maybe the bolts were added afterwards, like on Eiger Sanction. There are 3 separate anchors within a few feet of each other at the top...this seemed a bit excessive. Can someone with knowledge straighten this situation out and add the new routes to the database?
More road noise than at other crags in the Canyon, mostly from gravel trucks. Not so bad at the base of the climbs, but really distracting once gets a few feet off the ground.
Talking recently with an old climbing friend, we where talking about how people have been claiming "1st ascents/new routes" which where actually climbed back in the late 70s etc.... Dale worked with Layton Kor once, and they once where driving through Clear Creek Canyon (CCC). Kor mentioned that he had done 5 or 6 routes on the Little Eiger to Dale, as they drove by it. There are a lot of climbs that where done and named in CCC back in the 70s & 80s. I remember back then that CLIMBING magazine listed a lot of the routes folks reported.
The route between [Headline] (10a) and [Eiger Sanction] (10d) feels hard ten - 10c or 10d. When I climbed it, the guy that put it up was there too and wanted some rate opinions. I think hard ten for some thin moves in the middle. Nice climb.
On May 14th I placed a fix line on a new route to the right of The Decider. I have been putting up new lines on The Eiger for three years. Yesterday May 18th I went up to clean and discovered that someone had cut about twenty five feet off the bottom of my static rope!
I don't really understand why someone would do this? There are certainly no ethical issues with these new routes. The Eiger is not a wilderness or trad area and everyone who would go to The Eiger is there for sport climbing by the side of a road jammed with casino buses, gravel trucks and Harleys. So what is the problem?
Anyway if you have an issue I prefer you let me know here than vandalize my gear. Whoever did this must be a complete As*hole. I have put in a lot of time and money on this crag for all to enjoy. I have had mostly very positive response and this act makes me wonder why I bother.
Please note that multiple vehicles have been broken into near Little Eiger in Clear Creek Canyon since December 2007. Two early in the morning and two late at night. All vehicles belonged to ice climbers. The criminals appear to be going solely after cash, credit cards, etc as they left all other valuables (phone, ipod, etc) in the vehicle. The criminals then made there way to Blackhawk where they used the stolen credit cards, etc.
Does anyone have similar reports? Does anyone have any additional information that might help with the investigation?
If so, please post AND contact Luke Ligrani with the Blackhawk Police at 303-582-0503. Reference Case No. 08-0608
Let's put an end to this and find these bastards!
You can view pictures of the guy using a stolen credit card at the following website www.helpcatchthisguy.com
Little Eiger is more like 4.5 miles from the US 6 and CO 93 intersection. Park on the right side of the road immediately after the first bridge that crosses over the creek. Head up the climber's trail on the left of the road.
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