Little Critters 

I don't believe there is a piton anywhere on this climb. However, it protects very well, and despite the vegetation in a few spots, it was not really that dirty. A good place to practice placing gear safely for a new trad leader, but you *must* feel confident about your anchor building skills, as you do need to build an anchor at the top. By face climbing to the right of the crack, the second can make this a bit harder, i.e., more fun.

There's a pin on the face about 15-20 feet up, well to the right of the crack that starts out of the cave. I find it's more fun to climb the face up past the pin and join the crack higher up. There are many very large and very loose rocks on the ledge before the final headwall.

This was my first lead outside and if you've ever done any Big Cottonwood climbs, this is typical rock and a piece of a cake and a great practice for new leaders. Only one or two 5.6 moves. I went up above the bush and then did a semi runout traverse over and down to the chains on Little Creatures. It made heinous rope drag in the end but I didn't have to build an anchor and I could be lowered down. (What second wants to be belayed up on an anchor someone built on their first lead? Even if it was bomber, the mental confidence would still be lacking.) All said, I liked it.