|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 60'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]|
|Submitted By:||ldsclimber on Sep 13, 2007|
|Comments on Little Creatures||Add Comment|
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By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Sep 19, 2011
|Excellent route. A must do for the BCC area. Something around the blue tcu size fits great for the crux roof pull but nothing smaller is needed. The huge spike at the bottom is fun to yard on, as long as it doesn't trundle your belayer. The pro gets a little flarey at the top but eases up. Very fun. Mostly juggy face holds lieback style.|
From: SLC, UT
Apr 25, 2014
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
|This is a really fun climb, accented by the move at the top to get through the 'hole in the roof' as my climbing buddies call it. This was my introductory climb into the 5.11 range and it is pumpy! If you have this climb toproped, note that you can climb the other wall on this climb and the climb then becomes a very manageable 5.7 - 5.8 with some awesome liebacking up the obvious flake to a great resting ledge, until the crux move at the top to get through the hole. That move is somewhere in the range of 5.9 or 5.10 and finishes off this easier route with a great hard move. Have fun!|
9 hours ago
I think this is hard, and the original grade of .11c is valid. I've seen many a 5.11 climber get pretty spanked by this route. Pumpy is the operative word here.
It is way steep and stays steep and in your face throughout most of its length. There is one solid hands-down-rest while you are sitting on that "Pony" (the horn down low) but after that it is full on. There are some "rests" to be had past the crank Layback sections, and these are hand jams straight down behind flakes with good feet...but...the angle never breaks.
This was a very satisfying on-sight...read it...rack it...run it...and keep those eyes peeled for the key footholds that come to play.
I climbed this route a total 17 times just for the work out. But that's nothing.
I took a friend of mine over to it in the summer of '93 -"Mean Jean the Climbing Machine (he is a really sweet guy, and he learned to climb in the Gunks)- and he led it, un-led it (downclimbing while unclipping pro as he went), upled it (with but a toe touch on the ground) down-led it, up-led it and down led it, Cleaning it on this final run, and never taking a single fall!! I was amazed.
My gear, in order of placement (I tend to over-protect when it gets this steep):
Up and across the opening flake = #3 Camalot, #1 Tricam, #2 TCU...then...
Sling the Pony (big horn) & rest!...then...
In the top of the deep recess #2 TCU (or #4 Camalot) w/long sling...then..
Reach out of the roof here and place the next two pieces
(#5RP & #1TCU...placed with the right) then,
if you need it,
return to the rest to de-pump fully...then...
Look for a key foot for the left on the left wall when you exit on to the OH
face proper with the feet, then #2TCU...then...
For the straight up layback/jam
(Look for key edge on right wall for right foot)...
#1 Camalot then #2 Camalot (placed with the left)...then...
A stuff-the-hands-behind-the-flake-rest with a #3 Friend in there...then..
More OH laybacks with .5 or 1.5 TriCam...then...
#3 TCU to the right just below a bucket hold..,then crank up a bit more..to
Stem rest FINALLY... relatively easy through to the hole.
7 hours ago
|Cool story Bro.|
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