Little Creatures  5.9

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 170 feet Consensus:  5.9+ [details] FA:  Carl Coy and Keith Pike '85 Submitted By:  John Gunnels on Apr 29, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: The route starts in the shadow... traverses left.....

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Devils Tower National Monument Lifts Current Prairie Falcon Climbing Route Closure MORE INFO >>> 07/01/2012: Because no falcon nesting activity has been observed, the prairie falcon nesting closures currently in effect will be removed on Sunday, July 1, thus opening these areas to normal recreational climbing activities. The areas to be reopened include on the northeast face, routes between and including “Belle Fourche Buttress” and “Maid in the Shaid” (routes #68 to #93), as well as the “North Face” rappel route. Separate from the falcon closure, Devils Tower National Monument has a voluntary climbing closure in effect for the month of June, out of respect for American Indian cultural traditions. For further information on climbing closures, please contact the monument’s Chief of Resource Management, Angela Wetz, at (307) 467-5283 ext 212 or Angela_Wetz@nps.gov. For general climbing information please contact the Devils Tower Climbing Office at 307-467-5283, ext. 632. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

By far, my FAVORITE route on the Buttress. I remember Carl telling me how much work it was bagging the first ascent. The route actually gets it's name for the pesky wasps that liked to hang out. For that reason, it might be a wise idea to rap the route first before you attempt the lead.

Start on a large, somewhat detached block climbing the large crack and face to it's top. Step left onto the main wall and work your way up to a small roof. A CLASSIC move will allow you to pull the roof and lead you up to a hands down rest. For me, the crux is negotiating the face back right to the corner. A two bolt anchor awaits.

Location 

Right and down the slope from Lakota about 100 feet. This route is sometimes confused with Little Fingers.

Protection 

RP's, BD Stoppers and a set of BD Camalots to #4. LONG RUNNERS are a MUST!