2014 Update: Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and all seasonal raptor closure areas on U.S. Forest Service land will be re-opened August 1, 2014 for climbing.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
This is another example of Boulder climbers (Ament in particular) mining every bit of rock for another route. If you're bored one day and want to try something new in the Canyon, make the annoying approach to this rock, which actually has some interesting features.
Park on the right side of the canyon (heading West) at about the 0.9mi mark. The approach starts after the bend in the road to the left. Find a indistinct trail on the left side of the road behind the guard rail. Head up the gully until you see the biggest rock around. This will be Little Crag.
I have enjoyed my two visits to Little Crag. Leave the trad gear/draws at home. Not the easiest top rope to set up, but I seem to remember a couple of decent bolts above the west face. Balancy, tweaky face climbing. Bring long slings. The crack on the left side, north face, is fun and felt like 5.10- to me, beware of loose flakes, I can't recommend leading it. I recall the access to the top, further around to the left of the crack to be interesting, try the right side. To toprope the crack, a static rope anchored to the big tree would be a big plus. Good for early/late season afternoon sun, keep an eye for it when you're coming down the creek path. Call me crazy, but with the exception of Zolar Czakl and the fourth Elephant Buttress, but is this the quickest accesible 5.10 top roping in Boulder? IMHO, worthy of a visit.
To toprope the crack, you probably want to be able to anchor from a tree that is more or less than forty feet from the top of the climb...