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Sep 11, 2012
which trad routes below 5.10 would you consider a must-do for a first time visitor to this area? We will be there for 3 days with a total newbie along. We are looking for something not really hard or sandbag, just mellow routes where we can have some fun with a new climber tagging along.

Thank you.
Orphaned
Joined Jul 9, 2007
13,675 points
Sep 11, 2012
dream canyon fun!
the Coffin crack! mellow at 5.9 Devin Fin
From DURANGO
Joined Jan 14, 2010
3,262 points
Sep 11, 2012
mountainproject.com/v/sasquatc... , although only listed as a single pitch it can be combined easily with the classic Pentapitch route. have fun! Rob Duncan
From Salt Lake City
Joined Dec 27, 2007
131 points
Sep 11, 2012
Becky's wall, Satin's corner, bushwhack crack, cranial prophylactic, green a, wheels of fire, Gordon's hangover. cdec
From SLC and Moab, ut
Joined Jan 3, 2007
254 points
Sep 11, 2012
The Green Adjective (P1) to MA-1
Touch up
Pentapitch/Sasquatch
Hatchet crack to Movie variation of schoolroom
Crack in the woods to Hand Jive
Coffin crack (aka the coffin)
Mexican crack
Lazerus
Satans corner
Perhaps

All in LCC. Nothing listed is harder than 9+/10- and most are in the 5.7-5.8 range.
All are fun.
DrApnea
From Wenatchee, WA
Joined May 24, 2011
191 points
Sep 12, 2012
Although you asked about LCC, I want to suggest that Big Cottonwood Canyon also has some stellar moderates that you should check out.

  • Steort's Ridge and Jig's Up (do both the same day; they share one pitch).
  • Outside Corner on JHCOB Wall
  • everything on Mule Hollow (long approach but many worthwhile pitches)
  • Le Creme de Shorts, Layback Crack, and Goodro's Wall in Storm Mountain (Goodro's is hard .10, but you can either hangdog up it, aid it, or set up a TR by climbing the 5.6 sport to the right).

All of the previous suggestions for LCC are spot on. FWIW, the coffin is considered by most to be the best 5.9 in Salt Lake. Personally, Sasquatch is my favorite single pitch of climbing anywhere!

Also, other than Bushwhack, no one listed other routes on the Gate Buttress. Schoolroom is incredibly fun. The Hook is awesome! Callitwhatyouplease is also great in its own awkward way. Just beware that you need a 70m rope to comfortably TR it (you can rap off of it with a 60m if you rap off to climber's right instead of straight down).

Beware that your total newbie might have difficulty in LCC. Most of the climbing there is either pure friction slab climbing or straight in jamming.
kBobby
From Spokane, WA
Joined Oct 5, 2001
1,373 points
Sep 12, 2012
Park at the Gate Buttress to access the Beckey's, Schoolroom, and Green A/Kermit's areas. There's enough there to keep you busy for two or three days if desired.

No one mentioned half-a-finger, superb though short 9+ fingers. You've got several good suggestions above. Schoolroom, Schoolroom West and the Hook are mellow. Tingey's Terror/Torture is also reasonably mellow though not as consistently classic.

The two pitches of the Coffin are excellent, though you could easily link them if desired.

Pentapitch/Sasquatch/Japanese Terraces, etc is another good day.
ddriver
From SLC
Joined Jul 30, 2007
300 points


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