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Little Cottonwood Canyon

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Wheeler-Newsome Wall 

Little Cottonwood Canyon 


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Location: 40.5727, -111.777 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 3,163,533
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Eric Jacobsen on Oct 2, 2001
Forecast:
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Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaah, fall in LCC...

Description 

LCC offers primarily quartz monzonite (white granite, essentially) with a few areas of limestone.

Trad, sport, bouldering, and ice climbing are all well-represented here. Most of the climbs are on the sunnier, north side of the canyon, but shade may be found for those hot summer days. In addition, north-facing classic routes are found on the south side of the canyon (see especially Pentapitch Area and Coal Pit Buttress.

On the north side of the canyon, roughly from The Egg past the Gate Buttress, the rock is either owned by or the approaches to the tock cross land owned by the LDS Church. Be considerate when crossing/using these areas.

The Wasatch Resort about one mile up the canyon on the right (south) presents access problems to some of the crags on that side of the canyon as well.


Ice Climbing 

This is a well known area. The Falcon guide has numerous routes listed, but realistically only 2 that come in real thick (at least that I've seen in the last 7 years of my ice climbing experience). There are a lot of other thin routes throughout the canyon. The 2 main lines are Scruffy Band and the Great White Icicle. The GW Icicle has always got a crowd! Last year I went up there at 10 at night for a late night run up the ice thinking the route would be free. There were still 2 groups just starting up the trail. This wouldn't be too bad, but the route is somewhat narrow, so anyone climbing above you will knock ice on you. So if you're looking for a remote, backcountry experience, this is not the area. Both Scruffy and GW icicle have easy approaches (10-30min) and the routes are moderate in difficulty (WI 2-3). So if you want a close easy climb with a crowd, these are probably good places to climb.


Getting There 

From the I-215 beltway around Salt Lake, take the 6200 South exit at the southeast corner of the loop. Follow signs to the ski resorts and Big and Little Cottonwood canyon. Pass the left turn into BCC and continue on Wasatch Blvd (Route 210) for a few more miles. This road leads directly up into LCC. From the south, exit I-15 at 9000 South (Route 209). Head east as 209 becomes 9400 South and eventually hits Wasatch (210) at the mouth of LCC. Turn right and head up the canyon. (camping info#littlecottonwood)


901 Total Routes


['4 Stars',57],['3 Stars',313],['2 Stars',336],['1 Star',161],['Bomb',9]
['<=5.6',28],['5.7',48],['5.8',94],['5.9',124],['5.10',242],['5.11',154],['5.12',52],['5.13',4],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',29],['V2-3',52],['V4-5',27],['V6-7',12],['V8-9',5],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',3],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Little Cottonwood Canyon:
Schoolroom   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 5 pitches, 400'   Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area
Crescent Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   Crescent Crack Buttress
Beckey's Wall   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 160'   Gate Buttress : Beckey's Wall Area
Satan's Corner   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 100'   Gate Buttress : Dihedrals Area
Bushwhack Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area
Pentapitch   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad   Pentapitch Area
After The Fall   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Green Adjective Gully
The Coffin   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Coffin Buttress
The Green Adjective   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   Green Adjective Gully
S-Direct   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R     Trad, 7 pitches, 800'   The Thumb Area
Gordon's Hangover   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   Green Adjective Gully
Sasquatch   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad   Pentapitch Area
Mexican Crack   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Crescent Crack Buttress
Black Streak   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 800'   Albion Basin : Devil's Castle
Bongeater   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Bongeater Buttress
Stiffler's Mom   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 12 pitches, 1300'   Coal Pit Buttress
Equipment Overhang   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 70'   Gate Buttress : Dihedrals Area
Trench Warfare   5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b     Trad, 60'   Allen's Ridge Area
White Lines   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Tanners Gulch : Booty Wall Area
Fallen Arches   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Green Adjective Gully
Browse More Classics in Little Cottonwood Canyon

Featured Route For Little Cottonwood Canyon
Chris Thomas on the third pitch. <br /> <br />Photo courtesy of Andrew Burr.

The Ace-Drizzle Memorial Route 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Peeler Face
The Ace-Drizzle Memorial Route, .12c, 4 pitches. First Ascent: Chris Thomas, Rick Vance, and Jess Taverna, June, 2007The Ace-Drizzle Memorial Route was named in honor of our good friends Brian Postlethwait and Andre Callari, who were killed while climbing in the Ruth Gorge of Alaska in May, 2007. Brian and Andre were two of the most badass climbers, skiers/snowboarders, pilots, adventurers, husbands, brothers, sons and friends that ever lived, and this is part of our tribute to the amazing pe...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Little Cottonwood Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Clay Calhoon works a route at the edge of the Green Adjective Gully in the Fall of 2005.
Clay Calhoon works a route at the edge of the Gree...
Heeey Goat!
Heeey Goat!
I love this place.
I love this place.
I love running into these guys. They're so inspiring to watch. This little one is showing me how to work the slabs.
I love running into these guys. They're so inspiri...
Shot taken from the south side on the Super Slab
Shot taken from the south side on the Super Slab
sun set
sun set
Just some of the scenery up this beautiful canyon. (Cecret Lake)
Just some of the scenery up this beautiful canyon....
Bushwhack Crack, LCC
Bushwhack Crack, LCC
The Pres drilling on lead for First Ascent of AY OH! <br />
The Pres drilling on lead for First Ascent of AY O...
LCC Granite
LCC Granite
view from pentapitch!
view from pentapitch!
Bottom of LCC.
BETA PHOTO: Bottom of LCC.
What its all about.  Good friends, good beer, and good routes.
What its all about. Good friends, good beer, and ...
Looking up LCC from Maybird
Looking up LCC from Maybird
view of Cecret Lake & unknown formations (there has gotta be climbing up there)
view of Cecret Lake & unknown formations (there ha...
Valley View from Crescent Crack Buttress
Valley View from Crescent Crack Buttress
Mystery route between Humane Society Wall and Contact Buttress.  You can see the chains just above the lip on the slab.
Mystery route between Humane Society Wall and Cont...
Leading the second pitch of the grooves.  The bolt in the pitcure is of the route AY OH!.
Leading the second pitch of the grooves. The bolt...
Looking up LCC from the top of Mexican Crack
Looking up LCC from the top of Mexican Crack
Comments on Little Cottonwood Canyon Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 20, 2014
By Anonymous Coward
Dec 28, 2001

Little Cottonwood is an infamous area with a rich history of great traditional climbs, bouldering, and superb backcountry skiing. The rock is a very solid granite variation and offers many excellent cam and nut placements. Most routes have bolted belays, a very nice luxury, and all offer amazing climbing in equally amazing settings. Boulering is definitely not to be over looked, the canyon contains numerous routes ranging from V0 to V13. There are many bouldering spots, so one can find solitude and most offer extremely short approaches. No matter what type of climbing you are looking to do, Little Cottonwood Canyon will offer some of the best routes in wonderful and surreal settings.

By Taylor Morgan
From: Draper, UT
Jan 11, 2011

Snowbird has proposed to build a roller coaster in Little Cottonwood Canyon, on the lower south face of Mt. Superior:

www.deseretnews.com/article/705364186/Snowbird-resort-seeks->>>


I strongly oppose Snowbird's plans to build a roller coaster on the lower south face of Mt. Superior, across from and over Little Cottonwood Canyon Road.

Snowbird claims the proposed site is not used by hikers or backcountry skiers. This is not accurate. The area is on the southwest face of Mt. Superior, directly adjacent its summer trailhead/winter access points. This area is one of the most popular and treasured mountaineering, hiking, and backcountry skiing areas in Utah.

Furthermore, Mt. Superior is among the most beautiful and photographed areas in Utah, and the West. In fact, the 1976 Denver Olympic Bid Committee used a photo of Mt. Superior on its official bid packet.

While the proposed roller coaster will not directly inhibit mountaineering, hiking, or skiing, it will significantly diminish these pursuits and will be an embarrassing eyesore in Little Cottonwood Canyon.

Utah residents and tourists visit our canyons to play in the mountains, not on amusement-park rides.

Please contact your member of the Salt Lake County Council to urge them to oppose Snowbird's plans.

By Anson Call
From: Provo, UT
Mar 30, 2013

BEWARE of TICKS! My wife and I were in the lower parts of the canyon today. A few hours after we left, she discovered a tick on the back of her neck, just above her hairline. CREEPY and DANGEROUS! Ticks can carry some pretty nasty diseases, like Lyme disease and Rocky Mountain spotted fever. It's something most people don't even think about, but they can be a real hazard - especially in the spring. Every time you leave the canyon, be sure to check your skin and scalp for these nasty buggers!

By waltereo
Apr 12, 2013

Is there any snow left on the ground at Little CottonWood Canyon ?

I'd like to do some multipitches and wondering if i can descend safely without crampons or icepick from the summit .


I am planning to be in SLC between April 20 and May 4


Thanks

By MJMobes
From: The land of steady habits
Jan 7, 2014

just scanning the classics on the front page and notice that All chalk as well as trench warfare are not listed, in fact no 12s are. kind of strange since people travel great distances to do these routes.

By dave burnette
Feb 8, 2014

looking for a partner...hey guys, gonna be in Utah next week, looking for a parnter(s)...I am bringing all but rope and screws...email tripleaderdave@gmail.com or call 716-400-2436 if you are upto the call of duty...
pura vida,
Dave

By shanejcollins
From: Washington
Mar 19, 2014

Hey, can anyone tell me how good cell service is at LCC? it looks crazy close to the city.

By zoso
Mar 19, 2014

Depends on the carrier of course, but generally LCC is more cell friendly than BCC as it is a glacial canyon and therefore generally straighter. Certainly there are places where a signal is hard to find, but it's usually not too far of a walk to get one.

By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Mar 20, 2014

BCC has been outfitted with cell relays (?) last year, I have yet to find a crag where I can't InstaBook spray about how much of a choss slayer I am. LCC is more hit or miss for me, line of sight to the valley usually works.