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 ADVANCED
December Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Long December T 
Arborvitae T 
Caesar's T 
Climb of the Anonymous Coward (Var) S 
Crown Molding T 
Door Jam T 
I Promise Not To Cam In Your Mouth T 
Life After James S 
Little Caesar T,S 
Mnemonic Plague T 
Moonstruck T,S 
Nocturne T,S 
Nosebleed T 
Ranklands of Perfidy T 
Red Tag T,S 
Seams Alright T 
Short Takes T 
Telegraph Road S 
Winter Dreams / Gene and George's Excellent Adventure T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Little Caesar 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bernard Gillett and Paul Bodnar, 2009
New Route: Yes
Season: year round (avoid hot days)
Page Views: 353
Submitted By: Bernard Gillett on Sep 13, 2009

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Description 

Little Caesar is a variation to the first pitch of Caesar's Crack. Start immediately left of the crack and climb into a left-facing corner; clip a couple bolts as you turn an obvious overhang on the right (5.10a). Continue up to a 3rd bolt at the base of a slab -- a small wire and/or cam can be placed between bolts 2 and 3, though these rely on the integrity of a large block that has a slight hollow ring to it.

Step left onto the slab and clip two more bolts (crux), then head up right to the big overhang on Caesar's Crack. Jam through (5.10a) and finish at the chains on the top of the first pitch of Caesar's Crack (95').

The slab portion of the route feels a bit contrived (it can be skipped by joining Caesar's Crack sooner, after clipping the 3rd bolt). The intent was to establish an independent pitch that fires through the big overhang left of Caesar's. I've tried top roping it, and it'll probably go (a few more bolts would be required). Seemed at least 5.12+ to me, maybe even a little harder. I'll add bolts if I ever succeed on TR.

Watch for poison ivy at the base. There was a healthy patch at the end of summer, 2009 (a wet summer).

Location 

Begin just left of Caesar's Crack, below a left-facing dihedral leading to an overhang; look for bolts.

Rappel 95' from the chains at the top of Caesar's Crack (pitch 1).

Protection 

A set of cams from fingers to fists (#0.4 - #3 Camalot) is sufficient. Add a set of wires for more options.


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