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Routes in The Power Line Buttress
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Fuzzy Bunny Crack, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Little Bunny Fu Fu T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Screamin Demon, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 5 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | David Mealey and Chris Hill |
| Page Views: | 763 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | David Mealey on Jan 20, 2009 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Pitch one climbs a 5.9 offwidth to a ledge in what is described best as a large hole . Build your own belay.
Pitch two you can go Straight up and make some awkward wide moves into a black, closed book, dihedral. When the corner ends, traverse left 20' to a two bolt belay 5.10. You can also traverse left at the start of pitch two, around a bulge(easy) and climb the next corner over.It has a spicy bit getting into the corner, but is an easier variation.5.9 It ends at the same anchor.
Pitch three climbs a 1.5 to 2 size crack(crux) until it ends in some choss.
Pitch four, Two moves of clean aid and a high step gets you past the choss to an easy traverse that leads to the final corner. 40'
Pitch five climbs staight up a some what loose corner.60'(definitely will want your helmet right here)
Pitch two you can go Straight up and make some awkward wide moves into a black, closed book, dihedral. When the corner ends, traverse left 20' to a two bolt belay 5.10. You can also traverse left at the start of pitch two, around a bulge(easy) and climb the next corner over.It has a spicy bit getting into the corner, but is an easier variation.5.9 It ends at the same anchor.
Pitch three climbs a 1.5 to 2 size crack(crux) until it ends in some choss.
Pitch four, Two moves of clean aid and a high step gets you past the choss to an easy traverse that leads to the final corner. 40'
Pitch five climbs staight up a some what loose corner.60'(definitely will want your helmet right here)
Location
If you look at the buttress from the river side, the obvious line to the right with the closed book dihedral is the route. Look at the Fuzzy Bunny for the descent.
Protection
Bring a double set of cams from a #.5 to a #5 and one #6 friend, a set of stoppers, and many long runners. Bring your helmet for this route. The only drilled anchors are at the top of pitch two.You can reach the ground from here but if you top out you will have to rap the fuzzy bunny crack to the left.
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