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 ADVANCED
Willow Springs South
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Lucky Charms T 
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Little Black Book 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: 
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,174
Submitted By: Larry DeAngelo on Feb 28, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: Little Black Book is the corner system just to the...

Description 

P1 - start under a roof problem off the ground (crux) into a giant open book, make your way left
into another crack through a bulge.

Location 

Start around the corner left of Pillar Talk.
Decend: Rap off the anchor on top of Sleeper with
two ropes.

Protection 

SR


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By cassondra
From: las vegas, NV
Nov 16, 2009
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

We bouldered past the start and belayed from the bottom of the huge crack to reduce rope drag.On a very windy day, this made a nice cozy belay spot. At the top, this route shares the same belay with Senior Moment. There is one move near the top that seems a bit harder than 5.4. At this time, there are webbing and rings at the top on a stout bush. If one has a single 70m rope, a rappel can be made from Sleeper that just makes it to the ground with rope stretch. Additionally, these routes can all be walked off to the left of N plus ultra. There are a number of cairns marking the walk-off south past the Room With a View. I believe these to be marking a hiking trail as well as the walk-off. There are one or two almost 4th class moves on this walk-off, and just enough exposure to cause significant injury in the case of a misstep.