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 ADVANCED
Willow Springs South
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Abdominizer, The T 
Above and Beyond T 
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Chocolate Tranquility Fountain T 
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Little Black Book T 
Lucky Charms T 
N'Plus Ultra T 
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New Hips Corner T 
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Little Black Book 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: 
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,271
Submitted By: Larry DeAngelo on Feb 28, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Little Black Book is the corner system just to the...

Description 

P1 - start under a roof problem off the ground (crux) into a giant open book, make your way left
into another crack through a bulge.

Location 

Start around the corner left of Pillar Talk.
Decend: Rap off the anchor on top of Sleeper with
two ropes.

Protection 

SR


Photos of Little Black Book Slideshow Add Photo
The line that we followed to the top.
BETA PHOTO: The line that we followed to the top.
The rope to the left is the line that I followed f...
BETA PHOTO: The rope to the left is the line that I followed f...

Comments on Little Black Book Add Comment
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By cassondra
From: las vegas, NV
Nov 16, 2009
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

We bouldered past the start and belayed from the bottom of the huge crack to reduce rope drag.On a very windy day, this made a nice cozy belay spot. At the top, this route shares the same belay with Senior Moment. There is one move near the top that seems a bit harder than 5.4. At this time, there are webbing and rings at the top on a stout bush. If one has a single 70m rope, a rappel can be made from Sleeper that just makes it to the ground with rope stretch. Additionally, these routes can all be walked off to the left of N plus ultra. There are a number of cairns marking the walk-off south past the Room With a View. I believe these to be marking a hiking trail as well as the walk-off. There are one or two almost 4th class moves on this walk-off, and just enough exposure to cause significant injury in the case of a misstep.
By Tony Whitney
From: Las Vegas, NV
Nov 29, 2014
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

This route is a lot of fun. It has a couple of moves that seem just a little hard for 5.4, but it protects well enough to zipper it up. The hardest move will be the start if the cheater tree ever goes away. When faced with a choice to go right towards the corner or left through a small bulge at about 25 feet, go left through the bulge. It is a long route and used all but about 6 feet of my 60m rope. There are rap rings on a stout bush on top, but the crack at the top seems like a real rope eater. We rappelled from the top of sleeper which was a much better choice. You definitely need two ropes. My 70m rope would not have made it even with rope stretch.