Chase a line of bolts to the right of KeeMoSabe. The crux is a bear-hug between bolts 4 and 5. The slab above shares a single edge with KeeMoSabe and is either very thin or dodged by doing KeeMoSabe instead. The rock to start is a tad friable so stay on your feet and tread lightly. Little Bear is easily top roped by doing KeeMoSabe.
QD only. This 70 ft route needs about 10 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top. It shares an anchor with KeeMoSabe.
Just a comment on the Anonymous words about "route setters". This web page and comment section is not meant to be derogatory in any way. You can express your feelings about bolting, but do do in a civil manner. There are plenty of roadside crags throughout the country with many bolts on it. Some may argue that there are too many, but it is entirely up to the FA party to decide. If they feel like placing a comfy bolt spacing of four feet, more power to them, it is their dollar. Wisdom in the choice of placing bolts should be used of course, but I would have to say that in general, Richard Wright has made an excellent contribution to the Front Range climbing community with all of his route setting work. It is easy to criticize others, but before you get too carried away why not try and do it yourself, show us your route, and then we can all tell you what you did wrong. Just a thought.
I would like to thank Nate for his comments. Little Bear looked like an interesting problem to me, and one that appeared to lack good natural pro. My comment to the anonymous coward who will not stand face to face with me is simply to lead it on natural gear. Let us know how you did it.
Short guy beta....On the lower crux I get the bear hug, but instead of moving my feet to the left, I step my left foot on a small edge just above (and left of) the pegmatite, and get my right on a diagonaling edge high to the right. Pushing off that right foot I kind of lieback off the right crack and can reach the weird jug next to the bolt. I clip it from there and mantle past.
The upper crux is hard since if you can't reach the vertical edge. I basically hopped up into it. Yuk. That ledge below me makes me nervous.
By slim Administrator Nov 2, 2009 rating: 5.11a6c22VII+22E3 5c
Pretty good route on interesting rock. It would be better if the bolt that protects the crux was a bit lower and to the right. Iit would be easier to clip, and it would protect the right hand option better, which is more natural and more probable for shorter climbers. As it is, coming off the right hand option could result in swinging into the flake. Also, the hidden bolt way off to the left in the middle of the crux seemed weird.