Lito and the Swan
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If it weren't for the PG-R section, this would be a popular, classic route! It's long, pumpy, and will hold your attention the whole way up. The lower section is particularly interesting, with un-Gunks-like holds above small gear. On a busy day this climb is usually free!
This route might be harder due to the pump factor. I've heard 10b from some and I wouldn't necessarily disagree. Thoughts??
Head up a few feet until you can step left and join the obvious crack. Climb straight up this, exiting right at the top at a ledge with a block. Step left onto the block, below a right-facing corner. Make the crucial blue Camalot placement that protects the PG-R section. Climb up into the corner to its top and pull the overhang to the left. Head straight up into a V-shaped open book. From the top of the book, head up, either to the Double Crack belay tree or straight to the GT. Holy pump, Batman!
30 feet uphill from Double Crack, on the same wall. Start at some greenish right-facing flakes just right of the obvious crack.
Standard rack with some micronut/cams and a necessary blue camalot sized piece. A slightly larger unit may be helpful.
|Comments on Lito and the Swan
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Aug 21, 2011
This climb has been on my "to do" list for years. Was checking it out from The Nose last week and the upper half looked like it was covered in dense crispy brown lichen. Hope I was investigating the wrong climb. Anyone been there in the past few years? Condition report?
Jun 17, 2013
The route is fantastic! bring some small wires and its easily PG. Although subjective, I believe it is certainly not a gunks 10. A little pumpy but with good rests - get on it!