|Southern Comfort Wall
this route appears quite straight-forward, but provides awkward stances under small overlaps which make placing gear sometimes strenuous. There are many good face holds that are not always immediately apparent, which tends to make the route feel stiff for the grade. The crux is under the right facing overlap.
There is some loose/suspect rock on this route.
This route is located in an alcove on the west side of the South (Main) wall (about 100 ft west from Lowenbrau Light). The route starts up the left side of the alcove to the top of a small pillar. Directly above the pillar is the crux right facing overlap. After the crux, continue up crack systems keeping to the left to reach the summit ledge next to a Sotol bush. It is also possible to cross-over onto Miller High life which is immediately to the right.
Descent by scrambling up another 45ft to the chains of Irish Creme. 120' Two-rope rappel (can be accomplished with a single 60m and some easy down-climbing).
Standard rack. A lost-arrow piton is located below the crux. Build a gear belay at an obvious ledge with a Sotol bush, or continue up an easy scramble to the chains of Irish Creme.
|By Dan Carter|
From: Las Cruces, NM
Feb 23, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Not sure if I was on route the whole time but... The climbing seemed trickier than Black Velvet and there were some almost blind reaches for decent holds. Some cool movement in places but also some rotten rock. I ended up with so much rope drag I had to leave my rope and retrieve it by climbing Miller High Life.
|By Karl Kiser|
Mar 1, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
FA, circa Spring 1982 Karl Kiser and Matt Monagle. We climbed this pitch prior to Irish Cream. And the climb shares the top with Miller High Life because both climbs were climbed without knowledge of the other.
The pin is actually on the next climb to the left (Have a Drink on Me) but the starts are very close.