Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Karl Kiser and Matt Monagle, probably Spring 1982
Page Views: 1,075 total · 5/month
Shared By: Aaron Hobson on Jan 6, 2008 · Updates
Admins: Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown

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Warning Access Issue: Power drilling is prohibited in the Organ Mountains Wilderness. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

this route appears quite straight-forward, but provides awkward stances under small overlaps which make placing gear sometimes strenuous. There are many good face holds that are not always immediately apparent, which tends to make the route feel stiff for the grade. The crux is under the right facing overlap.

There is some loose/suspect rock on this route.

Location Suggest change

This route is located in an alcove on the west side of the South (Main) wall (about 100 ft west from Lowenbrau Light). The route starts up the left side of the alcove to the top of a small pillar. Directly above the pillar is the crux right facing overlap. After the crux, continue up crack systems keeping to the left to reach the summit ledge next to a Sotol bush. It is also possible to cross-over onto Miller High life which is immediately to the right.

Descent by scrambling up another 45ft to the chains of Irish Creme. 120' Two-rope rappel (can be accomplished with a single 60m and some easy down-climbing).

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack. A lost-arrow piton is located below the crux. Build a gear belay at an obvious ledge with a Sotol bush, or continue up an easy scramble to the chains of Irish Creme.

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