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list of best single pitch (or 2 pitch) overhanging splitter finger cracks?
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Jun 18, 2014
me
I know of gold fingers already would love to hear about more. I have never climbed in the meadow or Yosemite or really anywhere on gear in California.

SoCal Eastside Yosemite Tahoe whatever... I'm down to travel for good splitter finger cracks. I just don't know about them. I figure this is a fun topic you can spray a little about the rad finger cracks in Cali you've done. I want to hear :)
5.samadhi
Joined Jul 20, 2013
27 points
Jun 18, 2014
A couple off the top of my head:
Butterballs, Yosemite
Bony Fingers, Whitney Portal
Highlander
From Ouray, CO
Joined Apr 14, 2008
225 points
Jun 18, 2014
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Ka...
Andy....

You might wish to go toss yourself at this, I did and after 3 years of trying I gave up.

Vatican Porn 12B..... Church Domes.

I wish I had some photos.

Oh-yea, I just remembered this one:

The Right "E" crack, 12C ..... Rincon, Kern River Valley

And

The Left "E" crack, 12C.... Rincon, Kern River Valley
Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Joined Mar 1, 2008
187 points
Jun 18, 2014
onsight soloing Atman
Espresso Crack at Little Egypt
The crux pitch of The Prow at Cardinal Pinnacle
Jon Clark
From Philadelphia, PA
Joined Apr 15, 2009
360 points
Jun 18, 2014
me
awesome dudes

guy if you want to go back there I'll hit that this summer with you. I'm finally getting back into shape ha
5.samadhi
Joined Jul 20, 2013
27 points
Jun 19, 2014
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Ka...
Andy, I'll let you know. Right now I'm having a issue with my left leg, ( I can't stand on it!!!! ) just had a MRI, meeting with the doc's next monday ....
if it starts working, a Church Dome trip will be in order. I'll let ya know.

The Rincon is a winter spot, a good place to spend the winter without LEO interfearence.
Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Joined Mar 1, 2008
187 points
Jun 19, 2014
a picture of rocks
Tips and Cosmic Debris come to mind josh holmes
Joined Sep 5, 2008
211 points
Jun 19, 2014
Nick Stayner near the crux. Ryan Minton photo.
Highlander wrote:
A couple off the top of my head: Butterballs, Yosemite Bony Fingers, Whitney Portal


Doesn't the title say "overhanging"?
Nick Stayner
From Billings, MT
Joined Mar 6, 2006
2,586 points
Jun 19, 2014
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Ka...
Nick Stayner wrote:
Doesn't the title say "overhanging"?



YES....
Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Joined Mar 1, 2008
187 points
Jun 19, 2014
me
Nick Stayner wrote:
Doesn't the title say "overhanging"?

Yo Nick!!!!!! Lets crrrrrank!!
Andy
5.samadhi
Joined Jul 20, 2013
27 points
Jun 20, 2014
P3 on the Nutcracker.
The Phoenix? Josh Allred
From Salt Lake City, UT
Joined Mar 10, 2011
135 points
Jun 20, 2014
getting ready to try cowabunga!
the crux section of blues riff? bombs over tokyo, lunatic fringe, 3rd pitch west crack, serenity crack 3rd pitch. defiantly the prow on cardinal pinnacle. trying hard
From Sierra East Side
Joined Jun 27, 2010
575 points
Jun 20, 2014
Flatirons
Any specific grade range you're looking for? For hard stuff idk but I know a few good moderates in the mid-12ish range... Ryan Watts
From Bishop, CA
Joined Apr 15, 2013
49 points
Jun 20, 2014
Profile Pic
Wunsch´s Dihedral in the South Platte CO is great. Moritz B.
Joined Mar 7, 2013
188 points
Jun 20, 2014
Here ya go. Splitter fingers that overhangs 7' in ...
Here ya go. Splitter fingers that overhangs 7' in 90'. Variation to Spacewalk in the Tahoe area.


"Spacewalk" variation in the Tahoe area. Splitter fingers on a wall that overhangs around 7' in 90'. Have fun.
MikeI
Joined Oct 22, 2009
25 points
Jun 20, 2014
Hello
"serenity crack 3rd pitch"

That sounds like the best OVERHANGING fingercrack! Good Call!
SirTobyThe3rd
Joined Mar 12, 2012
890 points
Jun 20, 2014
me
Ryan Watts wrote:
Any specific grade range you're looking for? For hard stuff idk but I know a few good moderates in the mid-12ish range...
there's that classic subtle spray that I love about you
5.samadhi
Joined Jul 20, 2013
27 points
Jun 20, 2014
me
the Tahoe crack looks SICK!!!!!!

Moritz B. wrote:
Wunsch´s Dihedral in the South Platte CO is great.

Colorado nah I pass on that state sorry.
5.samadhi
Joined Jul 20, 2013
27 points
Jun 21, 2014
Surprised no one has mentioned Grand Illusion (5.13b) at Sugarloaf near Tahoe. Also Equinox in Joshua tree, but that is vertical if not only very slightly overhanging.

Sasquatch Crack is a boulder problem in the Valley near Le Conte Memorial which is supposed to be quite difficult. If you're at Generator Crack there is a good but short crack called Conductor across the street.

Sorry I don't have more, finger cracks that are overhanging are usually out of my price range. :)
John Hovell
From San Francisco, California
Joined Apr 27, 2014
21 points
Jun 21, 2014
Me at the good rest on Doggie Do
Moment of Zen at Pine Creek isn't quite as low angle as the pictures here would make it look. Very high quality route and fairly stiff for 11a...it is tips, though. Espresso Crack is one everyone has talked up to me, but I have yet to experience it. Same with that pitch on The Prow @ Cardinal Pinnacle.

Why not head out to Utah and go hard on some sandstone finger cracks if steep is what you are looking for. A fantastic one at Zion is Intruder, as is it's neighbor Dire Wolf. 2 mins from road. Totally choss though!!!! All of zion is loose, wide, and sandy ;-)

the 12d crack on Desert Gold looks fantastic at Red Rock, as does Seduction Line (definitely on the list for me once it cools off a bit).

Back to CA, the Conductor Crack across from Generator Crack is a good, stout little thing. Short Circuit or Circuit Breaker, can't recall which, the one behind Curry Village in the Valley is fun. Check out a few of the finger cracks at Snowshed at Donner Summit...Monkey Paws, Panic, etc...not exactly straight in jam cracks, but finger locks and stiff pulls...
Weston L
From Summerlin, NV
Joined Mar 14, 2010
688 points
Jun 21, 2014
me
Weston L wrote:
Moment of Zen at Pine Creek isn't quite as low angle as the pictures here would make it look. Very high quality route and fairly stiff for 11a...it is tips, though. Espresso Crack is one everyone has talked up to me, but I have yet to experience it. Same with that pitch on The Prow @ Cardinal Pinnacle. Why not head out to Utah and go hard on some sandstone finger cracks if steep is what you are looking for. A fantastic one at Zion is Intruder, as is it's neighbor Dire Wolf. 2 mins from road. Totally choss though!!!! All of zion is loose, wide, and sandy ;-) the 12d crack on Desert Gold looks fantastic at Red Rock, as does Seduction Line (definitely on the list for me once it cools off a bit). Back to CA, the Conductor Crack across from Generator Crack is a good, stout little thing. Short Circuit or Circuit Breaker, can't recall which, the one behind Curry Village in the Valley is fun. Check out a few of the finger cracks at Snowshed at Donner Summit...Monkey Paws, Panic, etc...not exactly straight in jam cracks, but finger locks and stiff pulls...

awesome thanks man! now I will go scout out those or some of them at least.
5.samadhi
Joined Jul 20, 2013
27 points
Jun 22, 2014
mountainproject.com/v/the-the/...

Not overhanging, but there's a roof.
Derrick W
From Salt Lake City, UT
Joined Jun 3, 2012
92 points
Jun 22, 2014
Which way again?
Hey did you mail that cam yet? Cunning Linguist
Joined Feb 15, 2007
2,478 points
Jun 22, 2014
Find these and enjoy some new routes!
Blackbeard's Tears. Plus, it's never been freed . . .
Ludwig cleaning the route.
Ludwig cleaning the route.
Matthias Holladay
From Durango, Colorado
Joined Jul 8, 2007
4,768 points
Jun 22, 2014
me
Zappatista wrote:
Hey did you mail that cam yet?

Yes :p

I was thinking that was more a second page post on the thread
5.samadhi
Joined Jul 20, 2013
27 points
Apr 23, 2015
On the Column. Photo by Viet
There's a few stellar and hard finger cracks along a wall in sequoia NP called Danland. They're scarless as well so the jamming is a bit cooler in my opinion. Nathan W.
From Sequoia NP, CA
Joined Aug 3, 2013
723 points


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