Lisa's Shoulder 5.9 R
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | FA: E. Eliason, D. Raymond, 1969, FFA: Unknown |
| Submitted By: | Peter Gram on Mar 18, 2004 |
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BETA PHOTO: Dihedrals area
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The land is owned by the LDS Church; please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>
Unknown by many people, the land, from at the LDS Church record vaults up to and including the Gate Buttress is owned by the LDS Church. The privately-owned areas include The Fin, The Thumb Area, Green Adjective Gully, Schoolroom Area, and Gate Buttress.
Over the past 40 years there have been several closures of this property to climbing.
Currently, climbers are welcome visitors in part because of Utah's Land Owner Liability Law and the work of local climbers to preserve access.
In 1998 through 2000 this area was quarried and is presently under restoration and re-vegetation. The climbers' trail goes through part of this area. Please stay on the trail so that this area can recover.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Lisa's Shoulder is the first major dihedral left of Satan's Corner. It is a fun gear-protected face climb. It is given a R in the guidebooks, but protection can be found to make it reasonably safe. Probably the most dangerous part of the route can be avoided. The first part of the climb is a dihedral without a crack. Instead, start by climbing up a difficult bulging hand crack just to the left which is about 10 feet long. Then pull up through bulges on the face to the start of a thin seam. Climb up this seam placing small cams and clipping a bolt. This face is thin with good feet. Then finish up the airy arete right for 15' to the anchor.
Rap with one rope off of the chain anchors.
Protection One bolt, standard rack with small cams (tcu or alien)
| Comments on Lisa's Shoulder |
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By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Mar 17, 2005
rating: 5.9
| Great route!!!The stemmy lower crux can be marginally protected with a long sling over the shallow bulge in the corner. The airy finish is well protected with a 3 camalot. |
By Nathan Fisher
Jun 30, 2005
rating: 5.8+
| This wasn't as good as I was expecting. I would almost feel better with the small gear that would work over that bolt. |
By tenesmus
Apr 28, 2007
| Nate, go on a hot sunny day and it won't feel like 5.8+. I think the handcrack way protects really well but it might make it harder. |
By L. Hamilton
May 3, 2007
rating: 5.9+ PG13
| I agree, the hand crack protects well but felt more like 9+, harder than the upper face. It might make it a better route too, adding a couple of small overhangs. The upper face and arete finish are just fun, plenty of interest for such a short pitch. |
By Ben Folsom
May 5, 2008
rating: 5.9
| This is a great route on really good rock. The direct way down low is pretty fun. The upper face is superb. Protects nicely! |
By Tyler King
From: Salt Lake, UT
Jul 7, 2008
rating: 5.9
| This is an awesome route. The top section is exposed and requires some thin face moves. Protects well.
+1 to the long sling over the shallow bulge in the corner on the stemmy lower crux. |
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