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 ADVANCED
Dihedrals Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black and White John and Mary T,TR 
Equipment Overhang T 
Equipment Overhang Right T 
Fallen Angel Variation T 
Half-A-Finger T 
Lisa's Shoulder T 
Satan's Corner T 
Satan's Nook T 
Stem the Tide S,TR 

Lisa's Shoulder 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: FA: E. Eliason, D. Raymond, 1969, FFA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,517
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Mar 18, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (42)
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BETA PHOTO: 1) Half-A-Finger 5.9+
2) Black and White John and Mary 5.10c
3) [[...
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Description 

Lisa's Shoulder is the first major dihedral left of Satan's Corner. It is a fun gear-protected face climb. It is given a R in the guidebooks, but protection can be found to make it reasonably safe. Probably the most dangerous part of the route can be avoided. The first part of the climb is a dihedral without a crack. Instead, start by climbing up a difficult bulging hand crack just to the left which is about 10 feet long. Then pull up through bulges on the face to the start of a thin seam. Climb up this seam placing small cams and clipping a bolt. This face is thin with good feet. Then finish up the airy arete right for 15' to the anchor.

Rap with one rope off of the chain anchors.


Protection 

One bolt, standard rack with small cams (tcu or alien)



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Dihedrals area
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By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Mar 17, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Great route!!!The stemmy lower crux can be marginally protected with a long sling over the shallow bulge in the corner. The airy finish is well protected with a 3 camalot.

By Nathan Fisher
Jun 30, 2005
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This wasn't as good as I was expecting. I would almost feel better with the small gear that would work over that bolt.

By tenesmus
Apr 28, 2007

Nate, go on a hot sunny day and it won't feel like 5.8+. I think the handcrack way protects really well but it might make it harder.

By L. Hamilton
May 3, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

I agree, the hand crack protects well but felt more like 9+, harder than the upper face. It might make it a better route too, adding a couple of small overhangs. The upper face and arete finish are just fun, plenty of interest for such a short pitch.

By Ben Folsom
May 5, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This is a great route on really good rock. The direct way down low is pretty fun. The upper face is superb. Protects nicely!

By Tyler King
From: Salt Lake, UT
Jul 7, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This is an awesome route. The top section is exposed and requires some thin face moves. Protects well.

+1 to the long sling over the shallow bulge in the corner on the stemmy lower crux.