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Lisa Falls Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Drag Queen T 
End Run T 
Flee Flicker S 
Fleeting Glimpse S 
Hard Knocks T,TR 
Lefty 
Lisa Falls (the ice climb) 
Lisa Falls Left T,TR 
Lisa Falls Right T 
Neurotica T 
Rodan S,TR 
Safety Blitz T 
Sweep Left S,TR 
Sweet Spot T,TR 
Under the Skirt and Clip The Bush S 
Where's Winky? T 

Lisa Falls Right 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 2,958
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Mar 22, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (37)
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View from the top of the second pitch.

Description 

This climbs the right facing, right-trending crack/ramp until you can gain the face above. This should be just after a large block with a stripe in it. Continue up the face, pulling off an easy mantle. Then turn left to meet your anchors. Pitch 2 angles right around the overhangs, and reaches the base of alarge right-facing flake. Climb this flake til it's end.

Protection 

2 bolts at the top of each pitch give you your anchors. Otherwise bring a large hex for the initial crack, some medium gear for the rest of the 1st pitch. The second pitch, requires some small to medium gear, and either well-placed large pieces for the flake or medium SLCD's. A couple of runners will also be needed.2 single rope rappels to get down.


Photos of Lisa Falls Right Slideshow Add Photo
Lisa Falls Right  <br /> <br />LeAnn Jones havin' fun.
Lisa Falls Right

LeAnn Jones havin' fun.
5)  Flee Flicker  6) Fleeting Glimpse  7) Lisa Falls Right  9) Hard Knocks  10) Neurotica
BETA PHOTO: 5) Flee Flicker 6) Fleeting Glimpse 7) Lisa Fal...
Loadin' up for the mantle on the first pitch of Lisa Falls Right
Loadin' up for the mantle on the first pitch of Li...
Topping out on the fun second pitch of Lisa Falls Right
Topping out on the fun second pitch of Lisa Falls ...

Comments on Lisa Falls Right Add Comment
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By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 16, 2005
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

This thing is pretty dangerous. Coming off the mantle, which would certainly be possible on a hot greasy day or if your head wasn't screwed on straight, would probably break a leg.

I would say this is a 5.5 climb for a solid 5.8 leader. Its a shame because one bolt, which would certainly have been easy and logical to hand drill on lead, would turn this into a fantastic beginner lead. As it is, the 5.5 fingercrack route to the right is far safer and a much better route anyway.
By kBobby
From: Spokane, WA
Jun 16, 2005
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

I think this is a great lead for beginners. Maybe not the best first lead, but good early lead nonetheless. I will say this with a certain degree of predictability: this route does not need a bolt. :)

Steve mentions that he liked Neurotica because it is a good full rope length. Well, this one starts and stops in the same places that N. does. You can do this as one pitch also. If you want to walk off, you can (but if you have a rope, the rappel is better). Continue up for about 15 to 20 feet into the trees. Head (climber's) right (east), bushwhacking your way down, eventually passing Drag Queen.
By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 16, 2005
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

I'm not advocating adding a bolt at this point - mostly just giving a heads up that a fall on the crux would likely lead to a trip to the hospital. I can't really think of any other moderate routes in LCC with stars in the guidebook that would have such a serious consequence because of a fall in the crux. Something to keep in mind if you are a new leader.
By Rebecca Airmet
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 15, 2006
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

I did an interesting variation on the first pitch. Rather than starting the friction down low, I went just a little ways up the bomber finger crack, did a shelfy sideways mantle (with good pro, maybe a 5.6/7 move), which put me almost exactly even with the lower anchors. I stuck a piece in above the mantle (very well protected for second), and traversed 15-20 feet to anchors with no pro. The traverse couldn't have been harder than 5.3, just a little heady.
By spencerparkin
From: Salt Lake City
Mar 23, 2012

The mantel move is a bit scary for the first time lead and the first time leader, but once done, even though you do have to climb up a bit further before finding protection, I don't think it's that heady or dangerous for the new leader, because it's pretty easy after that point. It is important to protect the mantel move for the second climber, which is easily done with protection peices placed almost directly above it as a directional from the first belay station. On her first go, my wife fell several times on the mantel move, but was well protected. On the second time we visited this route, she did the mantel move the first time very confident and without any problems!
By Shad Williams
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 17, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13

Did this climb today as my second trad lead ever. Ran both pitches together with a 70m rope. Had to rap twice to reach the ground. Two bolted anchors. Lots of places to practice placing gear. Only intimidating move was the unprotected mantle that everybody else has mentioned. Not a very hard move, but I agree you would probably get injured if you blew it.
By Tim Harper
Sep 26, 2012

Jarem Frye and I did the 2nd pitch of Hard Nocks, which shares an anchor with this climb.

Be really careful when you throw your rope down from the 2nd anchor station, to throw it down to the right (facing away from the wall), and not to the left, as there is a large crevis in which I'd previously got my rope stuck. I'd already lowered my partner, so I had to solve it myself. I tied one end of the rope through both anchor chains, then lowered myself with a Grigri, and was able to fix the mess... I was not able to fix it from up top.
By CWood
From: SLC, UT
Nov 8, 2013

I had the unexpected honor of meeting the first ascensionist, Peter Lev, today and giving him a TR belay on his route. For lack of a harness, he just tied into the end of the rope with a bowline on a coil. I probably should have asked him the FA year as I don't see that info here, but didn't think to.