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By J Achey
Dec 8, 2011
Ha! Topher, you are projecting. I actually don't get the same kind of pleasure you do from sandbagging. And anyway it was Chip's lead, not mine! I would not have been able to lead that pitch.

It WAS a freezing day. So let the record show, Robert, and anyone else who is following this thread, that Topher thinks the chimney is plenty roomy, as long as you don't have to wear fleece. When you repeat the climb, let me know who is the sandbagger!

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By alpinista83
From San Francisco, CA
Dec 8, 2011
Levitating
When Bloom's second edition guide book came out, I read your "Wide Wide Weekend" chronicle of Liquid Sky to a campsite full of fat crack loving climbers. Eyes as big as saucers, the 'so... who wants to check this thing out?' suggestion was met with a resounding, 'fuck no, crazypants.'

Even with your addendum and topo, no doubt, the climb would still engender the widest of hardman butt holes to clench airtight like a submarine, but still- to have the FA respond to a beta thread is nothing short of exciting. To me, at least.

And thanks Topher for the humble recount of your attempt. It speaks volumes to your modest personality. Absent of the typical superiority spray or fear mongering gives a softie like me some hope. With a bit of the intimidation and mystique lifted may bring about more ascents. Or not. But still, thanks for wrapping up an epic thread! My knee bent friend is going to be so excited to heal up and wrestle this thing with me.

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By topher donahue
Dec 8, 2011
For the record, Jeff said, "Topher thinks the chimney is plenty roomy, as long as you don't have to wear fleece".
I didn't say that. I just said I couldn't climb it in fleece and that it was all in good fun. I have great memories of that day - sandbag and all.

As far as sandbagging, I mostly sandbag myself, which should have a different name - Masterbagging, or something like that.

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By J Achey
Dec 8, 2011
I think if it had been warmer, Topher would have sent. He got pretty far up into the thing (photo of his highpoint appeared in CLIMBING's Gallery, not sure which issue).

FYI, we belayed in the alcove under the roof, off a bolt (probably a drilled angle) and a wide piece. Would be nice to have a second bolt there. Seems like people have combined the pitches now, but it's a great belay to watch the action.

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By Josh Janes
Dec 8, 2011
If you're going to die - and everyone will - stuck up in North Sixshooter sounds like as good a spot as any for your final resting place.

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By topher donahue
Dec 8, 2011
A skeleton in the crack - that would make it easier. We could just campus out your carcass, tie your ass off, and arm bar up the outside!

Really, take a double set of large big bros and getting stuck shouldn't be a concern.

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By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From Lander, WY
Dec 8, 2011
The Shield
If we pull on a pelvis, is that aid or considered part of it? Also, before anyone sacks up and offs them self in the thing, get a blood test and post it..... some of us will pull on body parts no matter what the grade.

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By Robert D.
From Boulder, CO
Dec 8, 2011
Yargh, Pirate Rob do be in Yosemite
I was amazed to see something in my inbox regarding this post. It's been about a year and a half since I posted and I still haven't gotten on it. I was going to lurk and read the thread, but, since Jeff and everyone else have posted such great comments, I thought I should at least say thanks.

The climb still remains one of my long-term goals, even though I havenít been climbing much the past year and a half (growth in the nonclimbing life). Iím now 5í11Ē 180 (everyone should have to post their measurements in this thread) but remain undeterred. I remember kind of cruising the squeeze in the harding slot when I was 170-75 (though getting into it was hard). Plus I donít really freak out in tight places (like my partner following the harding slot).

Those two things, together with Jeffís sandbag, ahem, description and the fact that Topher says there is plenty of room make me still want to get on it one of these days. Iíll be sure to not wear a fleece jacket and will probably go on a bit of a sport specific diet. Thanks again for the great comments. Much appreciated.

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By J Achey
Dec 8, 2011
One timeless, old-school trick for squeeze chimneys: swami belt. You can't fall anyway. Swing the knot around to the side, exhale, and believe ...

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By slim
Administrator
Dec 9, 2011
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.
JLP wrote:
The story goes that someone slipped through the S-curve in the Harding Slot, suffocated and died. His body bloated and stiffened, so was impossible to remove w/o cutting it up.


i thought it was the chimney on lost arrow spire where that happened(?)

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By Stone Nude
Jan 16, 2012
When dumb people have disposable income, hilarity ...
Size matters. That chick was right!

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By knowbuddy
Dec 3, 2012
A
I'm 5'6" 140 maybe and my nose and chest took a beating. I couldn't imagine getting through that thing being any bigger. In fact I had to take off my jacket and un button my shirt shortly after entering the squeeze. Admittedly I was fucking scared and it took a while to control my breathing. Once I did it wasn't too hard to move. My partner made it through with his jacket on and hes about 135. I took one 5, one 6 and a 3 & 4 big bro.

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By J Achey
Dec 3, 2012
I had skidmark gobies on my pecs for a month. Bottom line: that slot is REALLY tight. IF you can fit, it's not that hard. If you can't, but go for it anyway, you could truly get stuck in there and die.

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By Kevin DB
Jan 26, 2013
Inverting in rocktown
J Achey wrote:
I had skidmark gobies on my pecs for a month. Bottom line: that slot is REALLY tight. IF you can fit, it's not that hard. If you can't, but go for it anyway, you could truly get stuck in there and die.


Yich. I've always had that route in the back of my head. I'm about 6'0" and 160ish. I'm pretty skinny and that thing scares the hell out of me. Maybe go on a crash diet and then give it a try. I think one of the scariest things about it is that both people have to make it up. So you need two skinny masochists.

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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Jan 26, 2013
El Chorro
This has been the most enjoyable thread I have read on MP in a very long time. Actually, it's been the most enjoyable thing I've read ANYWHERE in a long time. Thanks everyone for your stories and comments.

I'm 6ft, 150 soaking wet and don't throw up unless I want to. If I quit bouldering I can probably slim my chest down to the point I could fit under a Ferrari. I am now going to add this to my dream list. And this is the best thing about rock climbing - I'm adding something to my list that Craig Luebben and Topher Donahue bailed on. How cool is that? ;-)

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By Josh Janes
Jan 26, 2013
You haven't done it yet ;)

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By knowbuddy
Jan 26, 2013
A
The fact that both people have to make it up in order for either of you to get down is scary. It was super fuckin windy when I did it and I couldn't hear my partner once I exited out of the squeeze let alone from the top. After he'd been climbing for a little while I could tell he was in the chimney. The rope went tight for a real lond time and I started to get worried because I knew there was no way he could have fallen inside the chimney and if he had he was probably stuck. I yelled a few times but it was way too windy to hear anyting. Finally he appeared at the top of the squeeze for LS and scurried up the rest of the pitch. I guess the rope was tight for so long because in order to save some time, it was almost dark and getting cold, he popped out of the chimeny about half way up and jugged the rest of the way to the top of the squeeze. A lot of thoughts went through my head sitting on top in that tower in the cold wind, unable to communitcate with my partner and having no idea what situation he was in. Everything turned out fine though and I can't wait to go get back on her. Highly recommended!

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By Brandon Gottung
From Moab, UT
Jan 26, 2013
В Екатер...
I'll be back in Moab March 15th. By the end of March, I'd be willing to take on this beast. I'm 135#s at 5'7", so I think I'd fit nicely, especially if I run some trails for a couple weeks beforehand. If anybody on this thread wants to climb LS, I'll do it! I don't have any big bros, just up to 6 BD. Last spring when I was on Lightning Bolt Cracks, I looked at that beast and told my partner we'll return the next day to cruise up the Liquid Sky. His response was a shudder.

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By Matt Lisenby
Jan 26, 2013
Kevin DB wrote:
Yich. I've always had that route in the back of my head. I'm about 6'0" and 160ish. I'm pretty skinny and that thing scares the hell out of me. Maybe go on a crash diet and then give it a try. I think one of the scariest things about it is that both people have to make it up. So you need two skinny masochists.


Also:


The fact that both people have to make it up in order for either of you to get down is scary.

Not necessarily . . ~ 8-10 yrs ago, Marc H. from Estes Park and I did Lightning Bolt Cracks, and after some 5.10 A0 traversing on the rappel we found ourselves back on line. Marc confessed he was not interested in more pitches at the time. Well we were right there and the approach was long and nobody else was gonna go up there with me if the only objective was LS, so I went ahead and climbed the wide corners getting up to the squeeze (pushing a large cam) and clipped the anchor immediately below the start of the business. Then went through the chimney pushing a cam (#6 friend I think) until a fall was all but impossible. I ended up linking all the way back to the top of the tower in one long pitch(terrible drag on the last chimney section) and cleaning my own gear on the way back down. So I guess it's possible to have just one person do it, but from personal experience I wouldn't recommend it. BTW I'm 5'5" 138 and I would estimate it was not substantially tighter than the Harding Slot on Astroman, in fact maybe a little bigger than Anorexia(5.10a --yeah right!) on the 3 penguins in Arches NP.

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By erik rieger
From Gold Hill, CO
Jul 19, 2013
I have no clue how many times Liquid Sky has been climbed or how frequently, but to add to this thread and help out those gunning for it (or dissuade them)...

Two friends from Colorado College linked up Liquid Sky (the leader onsighted it) and then Lightning Bolt Cracks in a day.

See pages 49-50: issuu.com/coloradocollegealpinejournal/docs/ccaj2011

Pretty impressive. I imagine most would agree.

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By Ryan Z
Nov 5, 2014
I am 5'8'' 150 lbs, while my chest did get stuck at times it was usually my hips (I ripped my pants during the chimney and got a crazy goby on my asscheek). I definitely seek out hard O/W and chimney as I seem to have an aptitude for it, so I felt confident going into this. Getting into the chimney was not difficult, 5.10'ish. Getting up the squeeze took me an hour. About 1/3 of the way through, I did not think I would be able to make it without going outside the crack. I did manage to get my hips past a tight spot and the 2nd half moved quicker.

I brought doubles of fingers with singles from thin hands to #6. On the 3rd pitch, I brought (1) #5, (1) #6, and (4) 60cm runners and went to the top. However, from the chains under the roof my next piece were the chains above the squeeze, after this I did not place any more gear. If I did this again, I would do it the sameÖ but wear thin shorts with taped knees.

If anyone wants more information I am happy to respond to private message or give someone a phone call.

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By marty funkhouser
Nov 5, 2014
Y'all are a bunch of skinny motherf$%kers

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