Liquid Sky

Does anybody have any beta on Liquid Sky (on N. Six Shooter)? (e.g. how small do you have to be?) I've done the harding slot, which was hard, and my impression is that this thing makes the harding slot look like grandma's pudding, yet I am inextricably drawn to it...

I know a guy who did it...he's a tad smaller than me. This guy is the most solid trad climber I've ever climbed with, nevertheless, it's probably not as bad as the hype would indicate.

I always thought it would be cool to climb the roof rather then sneaking around it.

It would be awesome to climb the roof, huh? How big are you- or how big is the guy you know? I'm 5'11' - 170#. Of course, the problem is that I'm definitely not the most solid trad climber you've has ever met, even if I happen to be a tad smaller than you. But I agree, sometimes these things get over-hyped, when in reality the semi-average Joe with some courage can get'em done. Nonetheless, I think I might wait to head up there, or head up with someone I feel super solid with. Thanks for the reply, I don't think many people know anything concrete about that climb, all I've heard is hype and legends.

I'm 5'8", 165...short and "compact". I think the critical dimension is your chest thickness.

Robert, I've been wanting to do Liquid sky. I have a buddy named Doug who lives down in Denver and might want to as well. Lets make it happen

mike, who is smaller than you and the most solid trad climber you know? just curious.

Rob Miller

platinum?

Followed platinum rob on Liquid Sky in '95 or so. First route we ever did together. He ran it out from the initial entrance of the slot all the way to the exit / junction with Lightning Bolt Crack. (No choice as all we had was a #5 camalot) Harder, longer than Astroman's Harding Slot. Takes time to figure out the right path for your body size. I remember being in a superman position looking straight down at the talus cone and not being able to turn my head to look up. Good times.

Oh yeah! This sounds "awesome!" I'm getting more and more psyched. By the this fall, when I have the time to get out there, I should be psyched enough to go and superman myself.

Has anyone gotten on this thing and have some non-hardman spray they can provide? Would like to know how runout it would be with a rack to 6. Thanks.

mike schlauch wrote:No choice as all we had was a #5 camalot

So yeah, I'm asking if it's still runout if you bring a 6.

You make a valid point. Guess I was looking for friendly beta from someone who has climbed the thing, and by someone who isn't one of the hardest of hard men that climb today.

The fact that Craig Luebben backed off this thing justifies the hype IMO. I believe his reasoning was that if he fell in the "slot" he would become hopelessly stuck in a pinch in the roof with no possibility of rescue.

Anyone know which climbing magazine this specific article was in? I believe Craig also noted the true roof appeared to be 5.13 OW.

Sorry, I should have done a better job googling before trolling. These rad mortals did a pretty good job summing up Liquid Sky without hyping it up.

And well, if I didn't troll, I wouldn't have gotten the beta that a valley giant #9 and a BB#3 will protect the route. Thanks, GM!

Mitch, I think this one is it. “Liquid Sky,” North Six Shooter, UT
“Still Standing,” Feature (182)72;
correction (185)24. It was an Achey article from the FA, da? I got this one from the Climbing Index.
climbing.com/print/index/15…
Happy hunting. I think I have this one, but it's at Kips place in Pb.
scott

alpinista83 wrote:Sorry, I should have done a better job googling before trolling. These rad mortals did a pretty good job summing up Liquid Sky without hyping it up. And well, if I didn't troll, I wouldn't have gotten the beta that a valley giant #9 and a BB#3 will protect the route. Thanks, GM!

Alpinista, I wish! that tr of mine you point to is just LB cracks :) cheers.

Ugh, forgive me, I have no sense of reading comprehension.

Something tells me this guy has a hardman background, but he mentions having used 3 big bro #3s.

Not implying that I'm thinking that it's not as hard as people make it out to be. I'm just looking to hear about more experiences, which I'm gathering are very few, so that I potentially have the gear to check it out. Looks wicked and more probable for a pair of climbers in the 110 - 115lb range.

having climbed with him, i can assure you that he pretty much eats nails and shits chains. pretty tough dude, and a really good guy.

alpinista83 wrote:Sorry, I should have done a better job googling before trolling. These rad mortals did a pretty good job summing up Liquid Sky without hyping it up. And well, if I didn't troll, I wouldn't have gotten the beta that a valley giant #9 and a BB#3 will protect the route. Thanks, GM!

i think the folks in this TR climbed lightning bolt cracks (not LS). the description of the weird dihedral to the chimney sounds a lot like LBC. you get a good look at LS while climbing LBC.

if i were racking up for LS, i would bring (1) new #5 camalot, (1) new #6 camalot, (2) 9" and (1) 12" VG, but i'm a pansy.

slim wrote: if i were racking up for LS, i would bring (1) new #5 camalot, (1) new #6 camalot, (2) 9" and (1) 12" VG, but i'm a pansy.

Thanks, Slim. I remember reading that Chuck Pratt put up the crux pitch of Twilight Zone with 3 piss poor, at best, pieces of gear. Back in the day, you had to know how to climb or else there was zero hope. I, for one, welcome the pansy wide and walkable gear. 2 VG9s? Landing the rack might almost be as improbable as the climb itself.