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Hidden Wall
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Liquid Anal Crowbar 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 500', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bryan Haslam, Harrison Shull
Page Views: 338
Submitted By: Bryan Haslam on Jan 21, 2012

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Description 

Pitch 1: 5.11a. Step onto ramp crack, then head up eyebrows aiming for a belay at the base of a right trending flake feature. 100'
Pitch 2 5.12a. Fantastic even if dirty from few ascents! Delicate and sequential climbing up the flake leads to the center of the 4' horizontal roof. Great deep eyebrow at the lip offers a hand jam and pro. Crank over the roof and climb 15' to the belay. 60'
Pitch 3. 5.11a. Follow eyebrows up and left, then back right past 2 bolts to a belay.100'.
Pitch 4: 5.10b. Follow eyebrows up to bolted belay. 100'
Pitch 5: 5.10c. Follow eyebrows up to 4th class rock and a sling belay in trees. 100'


Location 

Starts on a short left diagonal crack directly below the center of the massive roof in the middle of the Hidden Wall. Pitch one ends at the base of a right angling feature leading to the center of the roof. Pitch 2 climbs this feature, over the roof, and belays above. Pitches 3-5 climb eyebrows to the top.

The route, as most routes on the Hidden Wall, has lichen on it. The route is still very good. P2 would be 4 stars if it were brushed.

The route can be rappelled with doubled ropes.


Protection 

P1: 3 bolts and gear.
P2: 2 bolts and gear. A #4 camalot fits below the roof, but causes rope drag. Consider avoiding it. A hand sized piece is essential at the lip of the roof.
P's 3-5. Triple set of TCU's, double set of cams to 2", Tricams.



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