Lipsync  5.12b

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Type:  Trad, Sport Consensus:  5.12b [details] FA:  David Light Submitted By:  Pinklebear on Apr 8, 2002 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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2013 Raptor Nesting Closure in effect - NOW LIFTED MORE INFO >>> As of Feb. 1, 2013, a seasonal wildlife closure is in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure starts Feb. 1 through July 31, or until further notice and includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack. For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/press.asp?PressId=8152 From an Eldorado Canyon tweet, the Redgarden Wall closures were lifted May 6, 2013. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Action Committee for Eldorado

Description 

This is a hybrid/link-up type route but it actually covers some pretty cool terrain and must be one of the most overhung routes in Eldo.

Start on Kloeberdanz, cranking through the crux 11a roof until you're perched on the slab over the lip. Move up and left onto the hanging arete and clip a bolt.

Power out the arete to the lip of roof and clip another bolt, then hand traverse left along the good rail at the lip of the roof band. Clip a final bolt and continue left (crux), eventually joining Guenese at the good lieback flakes over the roof.

Use long draws on this route to prevent rope drag. It's easiest to clean this one on top-rope.

Protection 

Some small gear for the pillar at the start of Kloeberdanz and TCUs/stoppers for the corner on Guenese.