This is an awesome route, Lips Like Sugar follows a line of bolts through a large celing just down the hill from Cinch Crack. The route is at the lower end of Hawk Eagle Ridge so access to the route is pretty easy. Belay from a ledge about 15ft off the ground. Anchor your belayer, because a large lead fall could send your belayer into space. To climb the route head up right through 2-bolts and a small roof around 11a. Next run it out for twenty or so feet on some easy slab around 10a or 9+. Angle back left to a bolt below the roof, gain a good rest, and prepair yourself for the meet of the climg. Sustained 12 through 3-bolts on a gigantic roof. The crux involves some really funky moovs on very small crimps, and not much for feet. Overall, a really good route.
Bring 6-8 quickdraws as well as a #1 and a #2 Camalot for the belay.
|By Alex Shainman|
From: the best place right now!
Sep 10, 2007
This definitely (probably) was a really good route for a few ascents.... Kind of became one of the grosser bolted routes here with breaking holds and gluing attempts to restore it/keep it from further hold failure.