|The Land of the Overhangs
This is a traverse that starts just to the left of Flake Lunge. Work left to right and then back again.
This is a bouldering problem so a crash pad will be very useful.
|By Jordan A.|
Jul 15, 2009
rating: V5 6C
I always started this traverse to the RIGHT of the Bachar Lunge on the good crimpy lip holds. Make some technical, or one long move to the hueco/jug and continue left topping out on the easy crack. This is listed as V5 in Benningfields and seems appropriate. Also, try starting on the far left (north) side and reverse the process. There's cruxy moves right at the end of the lip (starting holds of "lip traverse". Top out on right side of rock pulling a scary but totally safe (unless you fall)roof at 2/3 height. The reverse lip, in my opinion is a bit harder, and the topout is much cooler than the crack on the original. Solid V5. Give it a try.