Lion's Jaw 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Tom Bauman, Bob Bauman, 1967 |
| Submitted By: | David Tvedt on May 2, 2006 |
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Lion's Jaw
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Description This is actually a 3 pitch route, but almost no one climbs past the 1st pitch due to the last two pitches being chossy unprotected chimneys. This covers the first pitch, which is a very good route that borders on classic. The first 3/4 of the route is in a solid dihedral. The finish is pulling a small roof that isn't harder than the moves below.
Location Left side of Morning Glory Wall in a dihedral right of Tammy Baker's Face and the Peanut.
Protection Gear to 1 1/2 inches. Rap Anchors
By DWech
From: Fort Collins
Jun 1, 2010
| Nice, solid 5.8 lead with nuts and chocks. For a first 5.8 gear lead -- it doesn't get much better. Avoid the upper pitches. |
By max huecksteadt
From: Salt Lake, UT
May 28, 2012
rating: 5.8
| This one will eat all the nuts you can take (you might as well not even bring cams). Great beginner trad lead- you can't worry with those bomber finger locks! |
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