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Morning Glory Wall
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Lion's Jaw 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Tom Bauman, Bob Bauman, 1967
Page Views: 2,924
Submitted By: David Tvedt on May 2, 2006
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Lion's Jaw

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Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is actually a 3 pitch route, but almost no one climbs past the 1st pitch due to the last two pitches being chossy unprotected chimneys. This covers the first pitch, which is a very good route that borders on classic. The first 3/4 of the route is in a solid dihedral. The finish is pulling a small roof that isn't harder than the moves below.


Location 

Left side of Morning Glory Wall in a dihedral right of Tammy Baker's Face and the Peanut.


Protection 

Gear to 1 1/2 inches. Rap Anchors



Photos of Lion's Jaw Slideshow Add Photo
Fun 5.8 route, protected very well.
Fun 5.8 route, protected very well.
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By DWech
From: Fort Collins
Jun 1, 2010

Nice, solid 5.8 lead with nuts and chocks. For a first 5.8 gear lead -- it doesn't get much better. Avoid the upper pitches.

By max huecksteadt
From: Salt Lake, UT
May 28, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

This one will eat all the nuts you can take (you might as well not even bring cams). Great beginner trad lead- you can't worry with those bomber finger locks!