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(g) Morning Glory Wall
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Zion T 

Lion's Jaw 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Tom Bauman, Bob Bauman, 1967
Page Views: 4,358
Submitted By: David Tvedt on May 2, 2006

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Fun 5.8 route, protected very well.

Seasonal Raptor Closure 2015 - Several Areas MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is actually a 3 pitch route, but almost no one climbs past the 1st pitch due to the last two pitches being chossy unprotected chimneys. This covers the first pitch, which is a very good route that borders on classic. The first 3/4 of the route is in a solid dihedral. The finish is pulling a small roof that isn't harder than the moves below.

Location 

Left side of Morning Glory Wall in a dihedral right of Tammy Baker's Face and the Peanut.

Protection 

Gear to 1 1/2 inches. Rap Anchors


Photos of Lion's Jaw Slideshow Add Photo
Leading the first pitch of Lion's Jaw, Photo by Da...
Leading the first pitch of Lion's Jaw, Photo by Da...
Lion's Jaw
Lion's Jaw
top rope
top rope
fantastic route! my first 5.8 trad lead and will d...
BETA PHOTO: fantastic route! my first 5.8 trad lead and will d...

Comments on Lion's Jaw Add Comment
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By DWech
From: Fort Collins
Jun 1, 2010

Nice, solid 5.8 lead with nuts and chocks. For a first 5.8 gear lead -- it doesn't get much better. Avoid the upper pitches.
By max huecksteadt
From: Hanoi Vietnam
May 28, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This one will eat all the nuts you can take (you might as well not even bring cams). Great beginner trad lead- you can't worry with those bomber finger locks!
By Obi
From: Portland, OR
May 4, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Pro is good and you can practically stitch it all the way up to the mini roof.
By kablammajamma
May 4, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

a #1 c4 is perfect to protect the roof; or, for bonus points, use a brown tricam!
By morgoth70
From: Bountiful, UT
Jun 17, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Classic Smith dihedral with sustained, fun 5.8 moves with an exciting, stemmy crux. Eats gear, lots of places for a rest if you need it. Don't ruin a great climb by doing the upper pitches.
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