BETA PHOTO: Lion's Head in the distance from the main trail.
This is the biggest wall in the park and also has the furthest approach. There are seasonal closures in place for nesting peregrine falcons.
Follow Staunton Ranch trail until it turns into Bugling Elk. Follow Bugling Elk to its terminus at the Elk Falls Cabin. From here, one will have to find their way cross country as no official route has been established to access the faces.
The only legal access is through the park's main entrance. All other points require crossing over private property. Local residents are very sensitive to park visitors coming into their neighborhood and trying to access areas like Lion's Head by crossing their property.
There is no easy way, one of a couple ways, I now of, hike to Elk Falls Pond, follow power lines/Elk Creek downstream, till you get to Chimney Rock on the right. Stay to the right of it. There's an old trail that leads to the base of the waterfall, with some deadfall, that leads down the creek, below the Northeast face of Lion's Head. Bushwhack up to the NE face, traverse round to the left. If you hike too far down the creek, you will come to private property,
The other way: Hike the Lion's back trail to Elk Falls overlook, then bushwhack up over the right shoulder of Lion's Head, around to the base. To the west is private property.
My partner Jay and I have climbed out at Lion's Head last year and hiked in from the Elk Falls trail from the entrance of the park. We did 2 lines up the northern flank. Both were around 5.10ish, all gear routes. There are some amazing features on the southern flank and near the far north end.
There is no entrance to park at the lower Elk Falls trail. The trail was used by the people who live in the area to get to the base of the waterfall, not a official park trail. The only way is to cross private property, which is not legal. The new Elk Falls trail will go to the top of the waterfall. It is not finished yet. The park was not open last year.
Yeah, the short answer is it appears that griffin1369 and his partner poached the park last year and likely used an access point that will threaten climber access to the park. If I'm mistaken, griffin1369, and am misunderstanding what you wrote, please correct me.