Lion's Head has an imposing North Face, with the Inland Northwest's best hard alpine climb, Lion Tamer (5.10b/c, 5 pitches) taking the obvious line up the middle, then skirting a large headwall to right. The South side has some easier stuff in the 5.4 to 5.8 range and there are also moderate climbs going up the East and West buttresses.
From Spokane take HWY 2 North to Priest River, Idaho. Go North on Hwy 57 out of Priest River. Drive 22 miles and turn rt. on Dickensheet Hwy (watch for signs for Coolin, ID. Drive 5 miles to Coolin and turn rt. on East Shore Road/Cavanaugh Bay Road. Drive 22 miles to Lionshead Campground. Continue past the campground for 4 miles. Turn right onto Idaho State Forest Road #44. After 2.4 miles, you will pass the intersection with ISFR #43 (the way to Lookout Mountain). Continue on 44 for another 3.5 miles. You will cross Abandon Creek and come to a T-junction. Turn right and drive for another 0.3 miles to a big switchback and park. If you come to a gate, you went too far.
From the hairpin turn,Follow the ATV trail Southeast until the flagged climbers path takes off uphill to the left (obvious- about a 5 minute walk). At one point, the trail will go straight up the creek bed, soon after this section, watch for a large tree across the path. Turn right before the tree. **Do not continue up the flagged trail** We travelled uphill for 13 min. (at an easy pace) to the turn. It's not obvious, so look carefully. Now follow the somewhat overgrown, but good climbers trail, it will trend right and uphill for about ten minutes, then contour toward Lion's Head. You will lose the trail 3 or 4 times where trees have fallen across, but you'll find it again within 50 feet, just look a few yards uphill for the continuation of the trail. The trail wil bring you to the bottom of the Talus field below Lion's Head West Peak. Get your bearing here so you can find the trail upon your return (not so easy in the dark, but there are a few cairns and two large snags that make good landmarks).
1. 55M of 8 and 9 Chimney climbing. The 9 chimney protects well and is a tad easier than the Stanley Burgner chimney but it has a way more dramatic finish with a 10 hand crack exit and a couple more 10 boulder moves to the belay. **belay is obvious- 3 pitons with slings and a couple rap rings (top piton is loose, but the other two are bomber)2. Goes straight up the obvious groove and has a nice 9 layback at the end that deposits you on an ample ledge. **Look for slings on trees, your choice of a...[more]Browse More Classics in ID